PV system technical specs

I know there are a few technical readers out there who might be interested in this stuff.  For the rest of you, browse through some old posts, some of them are quite entertaining.

The PV system sizing is based on a few ground facts, as we used to call them.  First, the current usage of the structure.  In my case, about 8,000 kWh per year.  Second, the average annual sun hours per day for the location (about 5), and third, the shading, if any and system losses.  Therefore, to calculate the system size, the following method is used:

  1. Annual kWh ÷ 365 days = kWh per day
  2. Percentage of electricity to offset (decimal)
  3. kWh per day ÷ sun hours (about 5 hours in the Hudson Valley)
  4. Figure in losses (temperature loss 88%, system derate 95%, inverter 95.5%)

Therefore, my system looks like this:

  1. 8000 kWh ÷ 365 days = 21.9 kWh per day.
  2. I want to offset 100 percent, so 21.9 kWh × 1.0 = 21.9 kWh
  3. I have an average of 5 sun hours per day, so 21.9 kWh ÷ 5 hours = 4.38 kW
  4. Calculate system temperature loss, 4.38 kW ÷ 0.88 = 4.98 kW
  5. Calculate system derate, 4.98 kW ÷ 0.95 = 5.24 kW
  6. Calculate inverter loss, 5.93 kW ÷ 0.955 = 5.26 kW

Therefore, according to this, I would need a 5.26 KW DC rated PV system.  Our system is 4.1 KW DC, which is a little bit lower than required.  I am waiting to see how the micro inverters do with the solar panels.  I will bet they are more efficient than large string inverters and thus, we will get close to the desired number.

Next, things like breaker sizes, wire sizes, voltage drop, temperature de-rate, conduit fill and grounding need to be addressed.  First, there is a three line diagram that shows how the array is wired:

3 line diagram, 4,100 watt PV system using Enphase M-210 inverters

3 line diagram, 4,100 watt PV system using Enphase M-210 inverters

There are two 240 volt 15 amp branch circuits, each one is connected to 10 Enphase microverters.  The inverters are connected in parallel on these circuits.  Each inverter is in turn connected to a single 205 watt Sanyo Hip-205N PV panel.  Therefore, each inverter is capable of 205watts / 240 volts = 0.85 amps.  Maximum branch circuit current is then 10 inverters x 0.85 amps or 8.5 amps.  The NEC states that breakers should normally run at 75% of there rated value, so 8.5 amps x 1.25 = 10.63 amps.  Therefore a 15 amp circuit breaker is satisfactory.

Next, wiring sizing.  A fifteen amp breaker calls for #14 AWG wire.  This will not be satisfactory, however, to deal with the voltage drop between the solar panel array and the service entrance panel.  The distance between them is 124 feet.  Since we paid so much money for the solar panels, I want to keep the voltage drop to 1% or so.  This will ensure that all of the power we generated at the solar array gets into our electrical system and will not be dissipated as heat.  Here is the calculations for voltage drop:

Vdrop = (I x 2 x d) / (1000Ft/Kft) x r

(It is a little hard to write this formula out on one line)

Vdrop – volts lost
I – current
d – distance
r – resistance of wire per 1000 ft (from NEC 2008, table 8, conductor properties)

Therefore, using 14 gauge (stranded) wire:

Vdrop = (8.5 amps x 2 x 124 ft) /1000 x 3.14Ω = 6.62 volts.

In a 240 volt circuit, each leg is 120 volts, therefore 6.62 volts / 120 volts = 0.0551 or 5.51% voltage drop.  Too high for our purposes.

Using 8 gauge (stranded) wire:

Vdrop =(8.5 amps x 2 x 124ft) / 1000 x 0.778Ω = 1.64 volts.

1.64 volts / 120 volts = 1.3%

Therefore, #8 AWG wire is appropriate for this application.

Next, temperature derate.  The wire itself is #8 THHN which is rated for 90°C.  This will be well within our specs, especially since we already accounted for voltage drop, above.  The wire will be in conduit.  In this case, we are derating the conductor for the maximum temperature that conductor is expected to experience.  Since our maximum temperature around here is about 100°F, according to NEC table 310.16, #8 AWG copper wire has a current caring capacity of 55 amps x 0.91 or 50 amps.  This is well above our maximum current of 10.63 amps so that is good.  This step is more critical on roof top installations where ambient temperatures can be very high.

Next is conduit fill.  One can’t just stuff as many wires as one can fit into a conduit.  Generally speaking, the NEC seems to expect about 50% conductor fill in any given conduit.  Thankfully, there are tables that give out this information.  For my purposes, I used 1 1/4 inch schedule 40 PVC conduit.  According to Table C.10 up to seven #8 AWG conductors can be placed in that conduit.  I have two 240 volt branch circuits, including neutrals and a ground wire.  That totals seven conductors.

Finally, grounding.  All non-current carrying metal parts, frames, etc. must be grounded. Fortunately, the 2008 NEC allows us to size our grounding conductor to the size of the over current device (circuit breaker).  In this cast that would be 15 amps, therefore 14 gauge.  Unfortunately, the Jurisdiction Having Authority (JHA) has not adopted the 2008 NEC yet, they are on 2002 which requires the grounding wire to be the same size as the current carrying wire, regardless of the sizing of the wire for voltage drop.  So, #8 AWG ground wire between the array and the service entrance panel is required.  All metal frames and mounting rails of the PV array need to be connected to this ground.  Any ground wire that is not protected e.g. run in conduit needs to be a #6 or bigger conductor.  Also, a separate grounding electrode needs to be installed at the PV array since it is not a part of the existing structure.

Instead of running a continuous ground wire to each module, inverter and mounting frame member, I was allowed to use a WEEB (Washer, Electrical Equipment Bond) type ground.  These little clips go between the modules and the frame, making the mounting frames the grounding conductor.  It saves time.

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Six years ago

We bought this house.  Unbeknownst to us, we got much more than we bargained for, in the bad department.  It was a fixer upper, that much we knew.  In 2004, the home inspection business was not regulated in NY state.  We hired a “home inspector” on the recommendation of the real estate agent.  When he showed up, in a beat up old van, and climbed out, I though, “This is not good.”  He proceeded to talk the talk, and made an effort to crawl around in the attic, and point out a few obvious problems, which we already knew about.

So, long story short, the trouble began soon after we started renovating.  Termite damage was extensive, and the two additions to the house had to be gutted and rebuilt.  Rather than pass our problems on to someone else, we decided to press on and finish the project.  The first 4 months were spent ripping out the entire floor system, including girder and joists, replacing the rim joist, replacing all of the doors, building a new kitchen.  Needless to say, our renovation fund disappeared at an alarming rate.

I decided then, to make the structure as energy efficient as possible.  That included adding extra insulation to all the walls.  In the attic, we added 18 inches of blown cellulose, we replaced some old single pane windows in the master bedroom and added zone heating, programmable thermostats and an outdoor boiler reset.  The effect of all this was to reduce our oil use from 800 gallons per year down to around 500 gallons.

Then, I installed a small Jotul F-100 woodstove in the living room.  This is not a full time, heat your house with wood appliance, it is much too small for that.  Rather, it is a nice warm fire on a cold night, with a nice big glass viewing area that makes in almost like an open hearth.  We use about 1 cord of wood per year, our oil use is now about 400 gallons per year.

Next came the solar hot water system.  Prior to this, our hot water came from an electric water heater.  Our electric usage was about 1,000 kWh per month, or 12,000 kWh per year.  The hot water heater reduced that by a third, making it about 8,500 kWh per year.

Installing the basement drainage system, in my opinion, is what saved the house.  Prior to installing it, we had several basement floods, some quite sever (up to 18 inches of cold, cold water at one point).  The sump pumps took care of all of that, since we installed the system two years ago, we have not had one flood.  The other result, the basement remains much dryer atmospherically as well, the dehumidifier runs two months per year vs. year round.  That has shaved another 500-600 kWh from the electric bill.

Finally, we installed the photovoltaic system this year, I expect that to generate all of our electricity annually.

Our annual energy consumption has gone from 1,521,440,000 BTU to 55,600,000 BTU or a reduction of 64%.   This is realized by the reduction of electrical use from 12,000 kWh to 0 kWh and reduction of oil use from 800 gallons to 400 gallons.  I did not calculate the wood stove contribution because it varies.

Now, there is a point of decision.  We need to fix up the front of the house and replace the siding.  My plan is to add 1 inch rigid foam installation to the outside of the house when we replace the siding, finish sealing up all the air leaks and make the house much tighter than it currently is. This project has been on hold since the economy went south two years ago.  It may take place over a two year period.  We also need to finish removing the old deck from the front of the house and replace it with a front porch.  This again has been on hold.

After that, we can either sell the house and move to a larger structure, or continue along the energy improvement process.  One thing I would like to do is to install a radiant floor heating system and tie it to the solar water heater.  Because of this, I have held off fully insulating the basement.  I believe we could get more out of our energy by installing a 95% efficient condensing gas boiler, replacing the 83% efficient oil fired boiler, which is 15 years old.  It is my dream to get down to 100 gallons or less of propane per winter.

That would make this house as near to zero energy as it can get, in my opinion.  We could possibly do a geothermal heating system, but I don’t like the complexity of that technology.  I believe using the sun’s energy directly to heat is simpler, less prone to failure, and in the long run, better for the environment (think leaking refrigerant, etc).

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Tool Review, Husqvarna 240 E Chain Saw

In order to put up our Photovoltaic system, we had to remove an old pear tree.  The tree was exactly in the prime location for the array, and figuring that we could replant an apple tree, which I like apples more than pears, everything would be just fine.

I got out the old chain saw, fired it up and began cutting the lower branches.  Then, I climbed up a ladder and started cutting away the upper branches.  Next, the saw quit running.  Now, truth be told, it wasn’t a very good saw to begin with and it was quite old.  Naturally, stopping in the middle of a project, while the rented excavator was sitting idle in the yard, called for some fast action.

Previously that day, I was at the local Williams Lumber store and noticed they had a trade in deal on Husqvarna chain saws.  I took my old, non-running unit in and purchased a Husqvarna 240 E.  It was a really good deal and I had always heard that Husqvarna made good chain saws.

Husqvarna 240 E chain saw

Husqvarna 240 E chain saw

I was not disappointed.  The 240 E is a good small chain saw that made quick work of the pear tree, which was suffering from an advanced case of heart rot, as it turns out.  I have since used it to cut up all of our fire wood, harvested from our wood lot out back.  It consistently starts on the third pull, has lots of power to cut through hard wood like oak, maple and black locust.

It has a 16 inch bar, but I easily worked through the pear tree which was at least 24 inches at the base.  I would recommend this for anyone needed a good small chain saw.

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Installing our Photovoltaic system, part IV

Now for the fun part, the frame is all done.  The frame is pressure treated 4×4 post and beam style.  The rafters are pressure treated 2 x 10 x 12 feet.  Over all, it came out pretty nice.  Next year I intend to replace the front deck with a covered porch, also post and beam style, so this should match the look of the house.

Front view of 4.1 KW PV system

Front view of 4.1 KW PV system

Ground mounted 4.1 KW PV system

Ground mounted 4.1 KW PV system

This system is 4.1 KW and should provide almost all of our electric needs once we replace the old refrigerator with an energy star unit.

Enphase M-210 inverter under Sanyo HIP205NHKA5

Enphase M-210 inverter under Sanyo HIP205NHKA5

I used Unirack Sunframe rails to mount the PV modules. The modules are  are Sanyo HIP 205NHK5 Modules and Enphase M-210 microverters.  I like the concept of the Microverter, e.g. each panel has it’s own small inverter.  This allows from some shade tolerance for the lower modules without loosing the entire array.  Also, each panel is matched to it’s inverter at the best efficiency, increasing the overall array output.  Seldom do you get to see the underside of a PV array as they are most often mounted on a roof.

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Installing our Photovoltaic system, part III

Constructing the mounting frame. I had my one “oops” moment in the project already, hopefully there will not be another one. It seems that when I laid out the position of the mounting frame, I was a little too close to the property line. In the end of October, the town that I live in changed its zoning code, making side line set backs 40 feet. The previous code stated it was 10 feet for “unenclosed” uses, e.g. swimming pools, fences, etc. Since the mounting frame is not enclosed, I figured I would be good at 30 feet. No good, the whole thing had to be moved back 10 feet.

Equally unfortunate is the fact that I jumped the gun on the construction and poured the footings before I had the building permit.  So, once again I rented the Kabota backhoe from the Taylor rental place down the road.  I am on a first name basis with the owner, which is nice, sort of.  Anyway, quick work with a chain and I pulled all six of the eight inch footings out of the ground, dug new holes and place the pre-poured footing in a new whole.  I dumped about 6-8 inches of crushed stone in each hole an compacted it.  All in all, I am only out the one day’s rental on the back hoe, which was not too bad.

Timber Frame for 4.1 KW Photovoltaic system

Timber Frame for 4.1 KW Photovoltaic system

On to the construction of the frame.  I decided to use 4 x 4 posts and beams, except for the main support beam, which is 4 x 6 inch.  The entire structure is braced with 4 x 4s at all ninety degree meetings.

Corner bracing

Corner bracing

Of course, the weather has closed in and I am working outside in the snow and wind.  On Saturday, it was 15 degrees out with a 20 MPH wind.  I don’t know what the wind chill was, I can however verify, it was unpleasant working outside.  That being said, progress has been made.

The frame is mostly up, I need to put the final support beam across the top.  Then I need to put in the “rafters” which will be 2 x 8 x 12 treated lumber.  The rafter spacing will be a little odd, since they are space to support the solar panels according to the panel manufactures specifications.

Hand dug conduit trench

Hand dug conduit trench

Also completed (before the ground froze solid) is the trench between the house and the support frame.  We dug this by hand, 42 feet long by 18 inches deep, as the current NEC specifies for PVC conduit.

Everything is frozen solid right now, which actually has it’s advantages.  Come springtime, this will be a soupy mud mess.  Once the ground drys out a little bit, I’ll rake it out and plant some grass seed.

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