Category Archives: Repairs

Small Engine Repair

Most outdoor yard equipment uses some type of gas powered small engine.  Generally, these units are reliable and will give good performance.  Every once in a while, however, they won’t start.

This year, I went to fire up the trusty rototiller (Yard Machines 21A332A700) to start working on the garden and I spent quite a while pulling on that rope with nothing to show for it.  It turns out, there were several problems.  These are the basic trouble shooting steps:

  1. Check the fuel.  Gas goes bad after a while, bad gas will smell funny.  If the gas has sat in the tank all winter, drain it out and replace with fresh gas.  Check the carburetor, most have a drain bolt on the bottom, drain about 1 tablespoon of gas out.  If the unit has a fuel filter, check that too.
  2. Check ignition.  Remove the spark plug and check for damage.  Check for proper gap.  The spark plug should have slightly grey/brown ash on it, that is normal.  Black gunk indicates a more serious problem.  If several attempts at starting were made, the spark plug should have a slight coating of gas on it and the cylinder should smell like gas.  Wait about 5 minutes then ground the spark plug on the engine and pull the starter.  You should see/hear the spark.  If not, there is an ignition problem.
  3. Remove the air filter and be sure that the choke plate is closed.
  4. After several starting attempts, the carburetor throat should be slightly wet with gas.  If not, there is a fuel problem.
  5. If everything looks normal (fuel and ignition okay) then the flywheel key might be bent.  This could happen if the engine was stopped after hitting something.  In many cases, the fly wheel key can be replaced.
Briggs and Stratton 6.5 HP engine with flywheel cover removed

Briggs and Stratton 6.5 HP engine with flywheel cover removed

With the rototiller, I found two problems, no gas and no spark.  The gas problem was due to a clogged carburetor port.  I took apart the carburetor and blew out all the ports with 35 PSI compressed air to make sure that no other junk was stuck in there.

Briggs and Stratton 6.5 HP engine ignition coil

Briggs and Stratton 6.5 HP engine ignition coil

The ignition problems were due to a mouse nest under the fly wheel cover.  The mice chewed through the insulation on the kill wire.  I tried to re-insulate the wire, but there was still no spark.  I replaced the entire ignition coil.  Briggs and Stratton has a good web site where one get know how and order parts directly.

I also installed a new, properly gapped spark plug.  Total cost of repair, about $40.00.

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Six years ago

We bought this house.  Unbeknownst to us, we got much more than we bargained for, in the bad department.  It was a fixer upper, that much we knew.  In 2004, the home inspection business was not regulated in NY state.  We hired a “home inspector” on the recommendation of the real estate agent.  When he showed up, in a beat up old van, and climbed out, I though, “This is not good.”  He proceeded to talk the talk, and made an effort to crawl around in the attic, and point out a few obvious problems, which we already knew about.

So, long story short, the trouble began soon after we started renovating.  Termite damage was extensive, and the two additions to the house had to be gutted and rebuilt.  Rather than pass our problems on to someone else, we decided to press on and finish the project.  The first 4 months were spent ripping out the entire floor system, including girder and joists, replacing the rim joist, replacing all of the doors, building a new kitchen.  Needless to say, our renovation fund disappeared at an alarming rate.

I decided then, to make the structure as energy efficient as possible.  That included adding extra insulation to all the walls.  In the attic, we added 18 inches of blown cellulose, we replaced some old single pane windows in the master bedroom and added zone heating, programmable thermostats and an outdoor boiler reset.  The effect of all this was to reduce our oil use from 800 gallons per year down to around 500 gallons.

Then, I installed a small Jotul F-100 woodstove in the living room.  This is not a full time, heat your house with wood appliance, it is much too small for that.  Rather, it is a nice warm fire on a cold night, with a nice big glass viewing area that makes in almost like an open hearth.  We use about 1 cord of wood per year, our oil use is now about 400 gallons per year.

Next came the solar hot water system.  Prior to this, our hot water came from an electric water heater.  Our electric usage was about 1,000 kWh per month, or 12,000 kWh per year.  The hot water heater reduced that by a third, making it about 8,500 kWh per year.

Installing the basement drainage system, in my opinion, is what saved the house.  Prior to installing it, we had several basement floods, some quite sever (up to 18 inches of cold, cold water at one point).  The sump pumps took care of all of that, since we installed the system two years ago, we have not had one flood.  The other result, the basement remains much dryer atmospherically as well, the dehumidifier runs two months per year vs. year round.  That has shaved another 500-600 kWh from the electric bill.

Finally, we installed the photovoltaic system this year, I expect that to generate all of our electricity annually.

Our annual energy consumption has gone from 1,521,440,000 BTU to 55,600,000 BTU or a reduction of 64%.   This is realized by the reduction of electrical use from 12,000 kWh to 0 kWh and reduction of oil use from 800 gallons to 400 gallons.  I did not calculate the wood stove contribution because it varies.

Now, there is a point of decision.  We need to fix up the front of the house and replace the siding.  My plan is to add 1 inch rigid foam installation to the outside of the house when we replace the siding, finish sealing up all the air leaks and make the house much tighter than it currently is. This project has been on hold since the economy went south two years ago.  It may take place over a two year period.  We also need to finish removing the old deck from the front of the house and replace it with a front porch.  This again has been on hold.

After that, we can either sell the house and move to a larger structure, or continue along the energy improvement process.  One thing I would like to do is to install a radiant floor heating system and tie it to the solar water heater.  Because of this, I have held off fully insulating the basement.  I believe we could get more out of our energy by installing a 95% efficient condensing gas boiler, replacing the 83% efficient oil fired boiler, which is 15 years old.  It is my dream to get down to 100 gallons or less of propane per winter.

That would make this house as near to zero energy as it can get, in my opinion.  We could possibly do a geothermal heating system, but I don’t like the complexity of that technology.  I believe using the sun’s energy directly to heat is simpler, less prone to failure, and in the long run, better for the environment (think leaking refrigerant, etc).

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Unclogging a bathtub drain

About once a year the bathtub drain gets a little slow.  If I ignore this problem, unfortunately it does not seem to go away, it only gets worse.  We end up taking shower baths, which is really annoying, at least to me.  So, once a year I venture into the basement to unclog the beast.

bath tub drain below the floor

bath tub drain below the floor

Because I am the one who installed the bathtub, I am the only one to blame if it is difficult to remove the drain to unclog it.  I think I had good intentions here, but they kind of got buried in the pipes for the solar hot water system.  Anyway, it is not too bad, just a little bit of reaching.  When I removed the trap I stuffed a rag into the sewer line to prevent gas from seeping into the basement while I cleaned out the various pieces.

Fortunately all of the drains are plastic and come apart with little effort.  A pair of slip joint pliers is all that is needed.  In fact, most of the connections are hand tight.

clogged up bath tub drain pipe

clogged up bath tub drain pipe

As I suspected, my wife’s long hair is the culprit.

more hair in bath tub drain

more hair in bath tub drain

Lots of culprit.  I sprayed each part out with a high pressure garden hose and wiped the inside with a rag.  Where the P trap meets the 2 inch drain there was some junk too, I cleaned that with a rag.

Once all the parts are reassembled I ran a little water into the trap to check for leaks and prevent any sewer gas from seeping into the house.

While I was at it, I cleaned out the bathroom sink as well.  This fixture had been draining a little slowly lately.  Same situation, hair.

Took about a half an hour to do and it is a little bit smelly and dirty or disgusting if you think about it too much.  Plumbers charge a lot but they earn their money.

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Fixing up my 1997 Jeep Cherokee

Last year was supposed to be the year that I traded that old Jeep in for something new.  After all, I have been driving this thing for almost 10 years, it has over 175,000 miles on it.  Ah well, best laid plans, etc, etc.

1997 jeep cherokee sport

1997 Jeep Cherokee sport

Over the years, I have kept some statistics on this vehicle, for example:

Category Number Quantity Comment
Oil Changes 38 228 quarts of 10W40, or 57 gallons about every 4,500 miles
Gas 20 MPG average 8774 gallons
Windshields 3
Windshield wipers 6 sets 12 wiper blades
Windshield fluid 10 gallons 10 gallons about a gallon a year
Tires 4 sets 16 tires
Radios 4 Two were ripped off, one broke
Brakes, pads 4 sets 16 pads
Brakes, rotors 2 sets 4 rotors
Batteries 4
Accidents 3 1 – rear end

1- guy backing into front of vehicle

1- parked car door dent

Deer strikes 1 No fatalities
Bird strikes 1 1 fatality

I have been keeping up with the maintenance items, Oil changes, brake pads and rotors, etc.  Its just that, well, for the last several years the little things have been let go.   The air conditioner stopped working about 3 years ago.  Then the parking break release button broke off and the hood latch pull handle came off.  Then I noticed the oil spots in the driveway.  None of these are very expensive to fix, they just require time.

The first thing to fix was the rear brake lines.  These are important if stopping is required.  They were rotted to the point of leaking.  I bought the parts at the local Dodge dealership in Kingston.  They are steel and come in two pieces, the longer piece is about 6 feet long and needs to be threaded up to the master cylinder on the fire wall.  The second part is about 6 inches long and goes between the pressure equalization valve and the long part just installed.  The hardest and most important part of the whole job is bleeding the air out of the lines.  Since I did not replace the lines to the wheel hubs, I bleed out the line to the junction on the frame.

Replacment oil pan 1997 jeep cherokee 4.6L straight 6

Replacement oil pan 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.6L 6

Next, the oil pan was leaking, it had a rotten spot on it above the drain plug.  I was going to try and patch it with fiberglass and epoxy, but decided that replacing the entire oil pan was easier.  I went to the junk yard and found one for about $25.00 and bought a new gasket at the before mentioned Kingston Dodge dealership.  At $35.00, the gasket was more expensive than the oil pan.   Replacement involved draining the oil and taking the old pan off.  I used gasket seal and put the “new” oil pan and gasket in place.

1997 jeep cherokee hood release cable

1997 jeep cherokee hood release cable

The hood latch was easy, it is just a cable with a hand pull attached.  I used the  old cable to fish the new cable through the fire wall and attached it to the release lever on the underside of the hood.  I greased up all the hood release mechanism to keep it working well.

The hand break was another issue.  The required removing the center console and took a long time.  Every time I thought I had all the screws removed, there would be one more hiding somewhere.  Once the console was out, replacing the hand lever and break cable was easy.

Next up, drain and flush the transmission, transfer case and transaxle.  I will bring it to the trusted neighborhood mechanic to do that work since they don’t charge too much and have the oil disposal tank.  I need to replace the idler pulley and the serpentine belt as they have been making noise when it  gets cold.

After that, there is an exhaust leak somewhere near the manifold.  It is steadily getting louder.  That will need to be replaced next but it is not a pressing issue yet.

I am going to try to get >200K miles out of this Jeep.  It is not the most fuel efficient vehicle and I wish I could drive something newer, however, it is 4WD which is almost a requirement in the winter time around here.  It is also paid for (and has been for many, many years).

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