I may have alluded to this in a previous post, I occasionally listen to the short wave radio, both the international broadcast band and non-broadcast services. When I was younger I was bitten by the radio bug and never quite seemed to get over it. There are some things that can be learned from international broadcasting that are not reported on elsewhere. There are also a fair number of communists, conspiracy theorists, paranoids, hucksters, UFO people and other crack pots which can be quite entertaining in their own right, so long as you can separate the wheat from the chaff.
As far as the “utility” stations go, there is some excellent software that allows one to use a standard computer for decoding non-encryped digital signals, which for a former military communicator, contains a certain fun and nostalgic aspect that cannot be found anywhere else.
Of course, all of this requires some equipment, such as a good HF receiver and antenna system. In the HF receiver department, I have a Drake R8A, which is highly thought of and works exceptionally well for utility station and weak signal work. For listening to shortwave broadcasters I tend use a Kenwood R-2000 which is not the best technically performing receiver, however, it is the best all around sounding radio I have ever used.
For an antenna, I have been using a small disc-cone type scanner antenna. For my purpose, this is a poor choice of antenna. Many or most short wave broadcasters are government sponsored and most have had their budgets cut over the last decade or so. That means lower transmitter powers or transmitter sites that are located far away from the US. Often signals are weak and or full of static or other interference. What is needed for HF (HF=High Frequency aka short wave) and MF (MF=Medium Frequency aka AM broadcast stations) work is some type of receiving loop. Loop antennas have good directionality and noise canceling properties that are important for AM and USB work especially in today’s electrically noisy environment. To that end, I discovered a terminated loop antenna that looks perfect. In keeping with the amateur radio tradition of naming antennas with there inventor’s call sign, this is a K9AY. You can get the full skinny on the K9AY loop antenna from this site.

k8ay loop antenna supported by a tree
Its a little hard to see, but this is two loop antenna supported by a tree. They are oriented SE/NW (loop 1) and SW/NE (loop 2).
First off, let me say that almost everything that I used to make this antenna is either left over or reused parts. Here is a list of materials:
- Two 85 foot lengths of #14 stranded wire. Left over from a work project 2 years ago.
- Eight insulators made from 1 1/4 inch Schedule 40 PVC conduit. Left over scraps from a solar PV installation.
- Mounting bracket for tree. Left over 2 x 6 from deck project.
- Mounting pole for relay box. Left over 2 inch schedule 40 PVC conduit, ready mix cement and re-bar left over from deck project.
- 120 feet 1/2 inch 50 ohm rigid transmission line. Salvaged from last years tower project in Florida.
- 9:1 Matching transformer, made that myself from a toroid removed from a dead switching power supply and #24 copper telephone wire. 45 turns on the primary, 15 turns on the secondary.
- 75 feet of 1 1/4 inch PVC conduit, left over from a solar PV installation.
- Ground rod, counterpoise. Left over 3/4 inch copper pipe from re-working the plumbing system in our house.
- Plastic NEMA 4 enclosure. Purchased new.
- Relays, control box, power supply and other misc parts. Stuff that was laying around.
- LDR (Perkin-Elmer Vactrol VTL5C2). Purchased new.
This antenna design is a terminated loop, that is to say the antenna has a termination resistor in the circuit to better match the transmission line. The original design calls for a fixed termination resistor that is a compromise for what ever set of frequencies the user prefers. A much better option is some type of variable resistor. Even better still is a variable resistor that can be remote controlled. A LDR (light determined resistor) is a solid state device that uses uses a LED and a to vary resistance according to how much current the device is being fed. This gives the maximum front to back null on the loop antenna (in the direction away from the termination). It works great for canceling out co-channel interference on the AM broadcast and shortwave broadcast bands.
The rest of the antenna consists of two loops of wire with a relay switching device that allows a user to remotely control the direction the antenna is receiving from. Below the antenna should be a good RF ground. The antenna itself is about 25 feet tall and should be supported with a non-conducting structure. For my purposes, a very tall ash tree is perfect. I started by cleaning out a 15 foot radius around the tree.
Next, I fabricated a support arm and hung the center insulator from it. For the center insulator I used some left over PVC conduit. And non conducting material can be used. The wire loops are 85 feet of stranded #14 wire. The sides of the loop are pulled out from the support and staked down to the ground using UV resistant rope.

switching relays, matching transformer and LDR terminator mounted in box
The relay box is a NEMA 4X enclosure (we get a lot of snow around here). It contains the relays, 9:1 current matching transformer, and LDR termination resistor. For control of the system, a #14 wires are run back to the control point in the house. Lighter gauge wire can be used, I had the 14 gauge wire around decided to use it instead of buying more wire. The transmission line is 1/2 inch 50 ohm hard line, again left over.
The ground system consists of a 3/4 inch copper pipe driven 4 feet into the ground and 3 inch copper strap under each of the loop wires. This is an RF round not en electrical safety ground and there is a substantial difference. The purpose of an RF ground is to improve the ground conductivity as seen by the antenna, thus improving the antenna performance.
This afternoon a dragged the R-2000 out to the base with an extension cord. I was not disappointed. The little 500 watt class D (WHVW 950 khz) AM station 30 miles away came in like it was next door. Switching the relays around, I found a good 20-30 dBµ front to back null.
I just need to get a trench dug (18 inches deep, 75 feet long) and put the transmission line into the house and I’ll be all set. I was contemplating digging it by hand, but no, I think I will rent a ditch witch instead.
I may even get one of those computer/remote control receivers and connect it up to the internet so others can enjoy listening.
Now, I will always feel like I am in the loop, so to speak.
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