This began as a how to project, but then other things kept coming up, and the stump table never quite was finished. Since it was so nice out yesterday, I took the opportunity to move the finishing process outside and finally wrap this project up. I like making things out of stuff. I don’t know why, it is just something that interests me. So, we had this stump from a blue spruce tree in our herb garden, and I figured why not make a nice end grain table.

Wielding the chain saw, I cut about 10 inches of material off of the top of the stump. From that, I was able to slice two pieces, each about 4.5 inches thick. If you want to make one of these, us a soft wood like pine or spruce. The problem with hard woods is that they will check (crack) and then you have a less than solid table. I made two of these from Maple a few years ago, and they both have large checks in them.

Next I planed the slices of stump off until they were relatively level. The Bosch power planer works very well for this. Then I put both stump slices near the dehumidifier in the basement to dry out. They stayed that way for a month or more, after which I lightly planed them again, then used course (60 grit) sand paper to remove all of the plane marks. I again put them near the dehumidifier and began to work on the support frame.

For the support frame I used 1 x 2 inch and 1 x 4 inch clear pine. You can build any type of frame you like, I used this design because it is easy, sturdy, and goes with the whole rustic, country living theme. The legs and cross braces are made from the 1 x 2 inch pine. To find the height, I measured an end table and used that is my guide. The legs are 24 inches tall.

The support frame is made from 1 x 4 inch pine. This is where things can get a little subjective. I put the slice of stump on my work bench and decided which way I would like it to face if I were to stand in front of it. Then, using the edge of the work bench as my front guide, I slid a T square along the table until the square hit the side of the stump and marked that spot. Then I did the same thing on the other side, and marked that spot. I measured the distance between the two marks and came up with 18 1/2 inches.

I cut two 18 1/2 inch pieces of 1 x 4 pine and two pieces of 1 x 2 pine for the table sides and cross braces.

I glued the legs and side pieces together using Titebond III waterproof wood glue, allowing them to dry over night. I used short drywall screws counter sunk to secure all the parts while the glue dried. I placed the completed legs upside down on the table, with the stump slice. I squared everything up once more with the T square and measured for the table front and rear pieces. They were 19 1/2 inches long. Once the legs were dry, I glued the front and back pieces on, again using counter sunk screws and let the whole thing dry for several days. When the entire frame was assembled, I covered the screw heads with wood putty.

I sanded the completed frame, and finished sanding the stump slice ending with 220 grit paper.

I decided to try my hand at making some sort of design on the table top. I like my “indifferent sun” logo, so I used a router to cut that into the top of the stump slice. I cut out the circle first and the bit depth was a little too much. When I cut the rest, I move the bit up about 1/16 of an inch or so. Then I used some black latex paint to accent the router cuts and re-sanded the top to get rid of any mistakes with the paint.

For finishing, I used Watco Teak Oil. I am off of polyurethane, especially on unstained wood. It yellows with time, and unless you want that effect, can be a little disturbing. The Teak Oil is a rub on finish, it takes several hours to dry into a nice smooth satin finish. If desired you can apply a top coat like polyurethane after 72 hours, but I like it with just the Teak Oil finish.

I attached the table top to the frame with 1/4 by 5 inch lag bolts and washers. All done! Now I just need to decide what to do with it.

Popularity: 8% [?]