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	<title>Comments on: Insulating the attic, Part II</title>
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	<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/</link>
	<description>Home improvement with an eye toward sustainability</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:58:51 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Vic Bosnich</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-189</link>
		<dc:creator>Vic Bosnich</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Feb 2011 21:15:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-189</guid>
		<description>Cellulose is typically manufactured as a loose fill or stabilized product. Stabilized requires a mist of water through an in line nozzle that locks in the built in adhesive. This reduces the dust considerably and provides less settling, however this is usually installed by contractors. Most contractors are competitive and cellulose is very affordable in attics and especially if you are topping off over your existing insulation. They can usually do 1500 sq ft R-30 in about 30/45 minutes. The store bought cellulose is usually in 18.1# bags so your material cost is about .40 sq ft. An installer would charge about .60/.70 sq ft so your really not saving big bucks, plus the back aches that go with installing yourself.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cellulose is typically manufactured as a loose fill or stabilized product. Stabilized requires a mist of water through an in line nozzle that locks in the built in adhesive. This reduces the dust considerably and provides less settling, however this is usually installed by contractors. Most contractors are competitive and cellulose is very affordable in attics and especially if you are topping off over your existing insulation. They can usually do 1500 sq ft R-30 in about 30/45 minutes. The store bought cellulose is usually in 18.1# bags so your material cost is about .40 sq ft. An installer would charge about .60/.70 sq ft so your really not saving big bucks, plus the back aches that go with installing yourself.</p>
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		<title>By: Robert</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-188</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Feb 2011 16:44:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-188</guid>
		<description>To answer Jesse.. The only vapor/moisture barrier on the insulation in the attic should be against the drywall. ALL other insulation has to have the paper removed from the insulation to prevent moisture build up.

    As for the dust. It&#039;s not an issue unless you have a really poorly sealed house. As long as your interior is trimmed out and all trim is caulked at the joints like it should be to stop air infiltration you will have little or no dust inside during application.
      I prefer blow in over batts because batts are tougher to install and keep the gaps tight between them.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To answer Jesse.. The only vapor/moisture barrier on the insulation in the attic should be against the drywall. ALL other insulation has to have the paper removed from the insulation to prevent moisture build up.</p>
<p>    As for the dust. It&#8217;s not an issue unless you have a really poorly sealed house. As long as your interior is trimmed out and all trim is caulked at the joints like it should be to stop air infiltration you will have little or no dust inside during application.<br />
      I prefer blow in over batts because batts are tougher to install and keep the gaps tight between them.</p>
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		<title>By: Jesse</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-187</link>
		<dc:creator>Jesse</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jan 2011 04:32:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-187</guid>
		<description>DK, he probably properly sealed his home first. I have the same pitch problem. I acquired roll insulation and wonder if you guys think it would be bad to put it face down over vermiculate blown in? Over time the insulation has been blown away from the soffits and it is relatively shallow insulation. The rolled stuff will fit in between the rafters good. I have also bought the same soffit vents so that the moisture is controlled better. Do you think that the vapor barrier will cause any problems? Also, the previous owner put rolled fiber glass in with the vapor barrier up, should I replace it with vapor barrier down?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>DK, he probably properly sealed his home first. I have the same pitch problem. I acquired roll insulation and wonder if you guys think it would be bad to put it face down over vermiculate blown in? Over time the insulation has been blown away from the soffits and it is relatively shallow insulation. The rolled stuff will fit in between the rafters good. I have also bought the same soffit vents so that the moisture is controlled better. Do you think that the vapor barrier will cause any problems? Also, the previous owner put rolled fiber glass in with the vapor barrier up, should I replace it with vapor barrier down?</p>
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		<title>By: Paul</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-186</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jan 2011 19:33:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-186</guid>
		<description>Actually DK, the LOOSE insulation has settled down several inches becoming a dense layer.  There is no DUST in the house because I installed a proper vapor barrier between the attic.

It was not a MISTAKE at all, I have saved well over $3,000 in heating oil since I installed this.  I&#039;d call that a wise investment.

OOOOPS, don&#039;t you look like an ass</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Actually DK, the LOOSE insulation has settled down several inches becoming a dense layer.  There is no DUST in the house because I installed a proper vapor barrier between the attic.</p>
<p>It was not a MISTAKE at all, I have saved well over $3,000 in heating oil since I installed this.  I&#8217;d call that a wise investment.</p>
<p>OOOOPS, don&#8217;t you look like an ass</p>
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		<title>By: DK</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-185</link>
		<dc:creator>DK</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jan 2011 12:52:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-185</guid>
		<description>Well you have probably had this LOOSE isulation long enough now to realize it was a BIG MISTAKE. The grey insulation DUST in your house will never end. OOOPS.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well you have probably had this LOOSE isulation long enough now to realize it was a BIG MISTAKE. The grey insulation DUST in your house will never end. OOOPS.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: National Grid petitions to Raise Electrical Rates by 21.7 percent &#124; Sun Volt Solar Blog</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-184</link>
		<dc:creator>National Grid petitions to Raise Electrical Rates by 21.7 percent &#124; Sun Volt Solar Blog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 13:23:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/insulating-the-attic-part-ii/#comment-184</guid>
		<description>[...] Adding insulation to the attics, walls and floors. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Adding insulation to the attics, walls and floors. [...]</p>
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