When I first installed our Jotul F100 wood stove, I had a heck of a time getting a fire going. I was using the traditional fire place method of building a fire, first some news paper, then some kindling, then a few medium sized pieces of wood, strike a match and viola: Fire. Try that in an air tight wood stove and you have, viola: A smoldering mess.
When all else fails, read the owner’s manual, that is my credo. I thoroughly read all the installation instructions, but operating instructions? No, not I. So I did a little reading and asking around, and the guy at the wood stove place suggested I use the “Top down method” to start my wood stove.
On my Jotul wood stove, fresh air enters from the back top of the fire box. Because of this, if the kindling wood is placed on the bottom of the stove, it will not get any air, so it will not burn. The other key to getting the modern wood stoves to start right is to heat them up as quickly as possible. These stoves are meant to operate in a certain range of temperatures, anything outside of that range and they will not function properly. A small hot fire with lots of kindling wood works the best.
Here is the top down method:
Make sure the damper is open and the air control lever is all the way open (all the way to the right)
Remove the ashes from the previous fire, if any. If there is any charcoal left, separate it from the ashes and put in the bottom front of the fire box, toward the front of the stove.
Place some medium sized (2-3 inch diameter) wood on the bottom of the stove.Place kindling wood (1 inch diameter) on top of that. I usually try to stack the kindling wood in diagonally alternating courses. This ensures that plenty of air can circulate around the wood as it is starting to burn. I use a good amount of kindling wood, around 10 to 15 pieces.
Place some crumbled up news paper on the sides and on top of the kindling wood and light. Newspaper works the best, stay away from colored print, as it contains toxic chemicals.
I leave the door cracked open about 1/2 inch until the fire starts burning the kindling wood.
Once the kindling wood takes off, let it burn nice and hot for a few minutes, then place some more medium sized logs on the fire. Do this until the stove reaches operating temperature, which in my case is 400 degrees F.
That method works every time. It is also important to clean off the glass before each fire, a little windex and a paper towel will do the trick.
Once the fire is going and the stove is hot, I turn down the air flow so it does not get too hot. I like to see the temperature between 400 and 450 degrees F. Refueling is pretty easy, although I recommend using one of those fire place gloves so you don’t singe the hair off the back of your hand.
On a nice cold night, that little stove heats up the whole house, tonight, for example, the temperature in the great room is a toasty 75 degrees. The rest of the house is around 70 or so. Before I go to bed, I put one last log on the fire and it will burn until 1 am or so.
Can I ask if you installed an outside air intake for your Nordic? We too are considering this stove and it now comes with the optional outside air intake. My husband is dead set on it, but I wonder if we truly need it. Most people seem to have good things to say about the stove and they don’t have it.
Actually I did not install the outside air intake. Our house is fairly leaky, we get plenty of outside air coming in mostly through the basement. The stove works very well without it. I think the key to this stove is to have the right sized chimney that is tall enough. If I recall right, I believe the owner’s manual call for a 6 inch chimney 14 feet or taller.
If you live in a house that is tighter (i.e. better insulated) you may need an outside air intake. As I work on the house and fix all the air leaks, I may need to install one myself.
How many sq feet do you heat with the F100? And is there any hope of having red coals in the morning? I don’t need “fire” in the morning but would like some coals to get things going with…. Or is it a fresh new fire every morning?
Thanks,
Tom
Tom,
We heat about 1000 sf or so with this. We don’t use it full time, just as a supplement to our regular heating. Usually be morning, the fire is out (no embers), unless I re-load it during the night (when I get up to go to the bathroom or something). I find a full load of wood lasts about 4 hours or so depending on the type of wood.
I would not try to use this unit as a full time heater, it is too small and does not have a long enough burn time. It is a great little stove for having a nice evening fire, or if you are going to be around all day, it starts easily and warms up quickly. It is also fun to watch.
Hey. My 2 centsI just installed a new F100 (Dec 08)-it is my first wood stove and the largest I could legally install without renovating my mantel. The stove was built in July of 08 and the lighting instructions are for a bottom up fire. After filling my house with smoke one or six times I realized that my issue was the wood. Unseasoned wood needs to be split into 1-2″ thicknesses to get a good roaring fire (up to 450 degrees at best). I now have seasoned wood and can generate a fire from embers to 600 degrees in about 1 Hour. I heat approx. 800+sq’ of my 1100sq’ house running my stove mornings and evenings during the week and constantly on the weekend. I bank up my stove with red oak at about 11:30 PM and I usually have a few glowing embers amid the ash at 6 AM (The stove is never warmer than 100 degrees by then-my heater kicks on around 3-4 AM). I LOVE this stove and it has quickly become the center point of my home. Make sure you get a surface thermometer, read the manual, and follow the break-in instructions-you will learn volumes.Brian
Hey Brian, Glad you like the F100. I have read some mixed reviews but I find it is a good little stove, Firewood does make all the difference. I have been using seaoned locust and/or cherry, both from dead falls a few years old. The locust burns really hot and one log lasts a couple of hours if I back the air damper all the way down. It is a little tempermental to get started, but once you understand how to get it going, it works great. Thanks for the input.
My first F100 complaint. This morning with a crisp and mild -8 degrees F temp outside I arose at 6:30 AM, fed my cat, put on some coffee and lit a fire in my F 100. Just as the kindling was really getting going a 3″ log rolled forward and fell on top of the door latch. The shift of wood put out the fire and the log blocked the latch, and therefore the door, from opening. After trying to jiggle the handle, then trying to remove the handle, then disconnecting the flue pipe and fishing a coathanger hook to move the log, I finally pulled out my stove and tipped it backward and shook it. The log rolled back and I got the door open. I hate to think what this procedure did to the seals but it is now 9:30 AM and my fire is burning cheerfully. I think I would also like the door to open 180 degrees instead of just 90-my hands are rather big and I sustain my fair share of minor burns due to the lack of manuverability.
Hey Brian, that sounds rather bad. We have been using the F100 since January 2005. I have had logs roll forward onto the glass door before, but I have always been able to get the door open and push the log back with a poker. Perhaps you should write Jotul and tell them what happened. They might design some sort of protector for the inside of the latch to prevent that from happening again.
Anyway, thanks for the info.
I think we are going to pick up one of these little stoves pretty soon. Our chimney is only 12/13 feet though so I hope our draft will be ok. We are going to install an insulated stainless steel liner so that should help.
We had a Nordic installed in August and are now getting around to the initial burns. We can’t seem to get the stove over 300. Any suggestions? There are many, bright flames.
We’re burning pine.
I would burn some other wood, pine is very low BTU wood. The most common mistake people make with these stoves is not enough chimney. It has to be at least 14 feet for the stove to draft correctly.
NO woodstove should be started the way you start a fireplace. And no woodstove should need the amount of paper you use! Good grief. That picture cracked me up.
I have used woodstoves, both so-called airtight and the old drafty type, all my life, often as my only source of heat in up to sub-zero temps. I’ve never had to use more than one or two pieces of paper, and often just some bark or shavings. Until now.
Where I am now, I wanted a small stove to heat only the living space I use most. I had the Jotul Nordic installed with a straight up metal chimney.
Theoretically, I should have ideal draft for fire-starting. Nope. This is the hardest stove to start, even with moderate outside temps and dry wood, I have ever experienced. My opinion is that the stove draft design itself is flawed. I once had an old welded plate stove with heavy firebrick lining and a right angle stovepipe into a big brick and cobblestone fireplace chimney that was easier to start than this one.
The most rational way to start a fire in this stove is to build a very small fire with kindling, using a small piece of stove wood at the back to lay the kindling against. When this gets going, gradually add larger pieces of kindling until you get to log size. More attention than I’ve ever had to pay to a stove.
I have one other complaint about the Nordic: it does not take “16 inch logs” as claimed. It will take 16 inch sticks if you lay them in at an angle. Fortunately my wood guy (I no longer cut my own wood) was willing to accommodate my need for super-stubbies.
I have used Jotuls in the past, including the Bear. I didn’t get the Bear because I thought it would be too big for my purposes. But if I were to do it again, that’s what I’d get or the 602CB (sort of a Baby Bear). I manage with the Nordic, but it is a pain in the rear compared to every other wood stove I’ve used.
I just purchased the Nordic about a month ago. It is about twice the BTU’s of my last stove. I will admit that the first few times I started a fire it would just not go well and die out. I learned that this stove seems to require a good full hot bed of coals to perform well. I was always a paper and kindling guy, but recently I switched to starter gel. For kindling, I cut a dry pine 2″x 4″ up about 6 inches long and split it into about 1″ x 1″ pieces. I lay a few of them in the bottom of the stove front to back about 3-4 inches apart from each other. I lay more going sideways across the first ones. Imagine a bridge over a river. The first layer is the support and the next sideways layer like the roadbed. The first layer lets air circulate underneath it. Next squirt starter gel on the kindling, not a lot but go back and forth. Starter gel does not explode like starter fluid. It has small blue flames and I feel very safe using it. Next I put small pieces of hardwood about 2″ x 3″ on top of the “bridge”. Light the starter and let this burn for about 20 minutes. When the bridge is reduced to a nice bed of coals, then add your bigger stuff. Keep in mind when you start a fire don’t have more wood (fuel) than the oxygen can keep up with, If you do, it will be a smoldering mess. All of the kindling will be partially burned and difficult to start. Also, split and round logs so you can burn the middle, and burn bark up. This stove is a little hard to start but start small, let the flue heat up to push any “cold plugs” out and build it up. Compared to my last stove that was firebrick lined, this stove is throwing heat in 1/2 hour, and I get 500- 600 degree fires without a problem. If you are having trouble getting a good fire, try this. Again, make sure you keep the coal bed on the bottom to ensure the next log will be able to light.
Hey folks,
I just got a nice F100 used last week. I was using (and still have) a 602N. I had my first two fires this week and I am really disappointed with the heat output. I am using the exact same wood as I was using in the 602N. I don’t get it. I can’t seem to get the temp above 450F. With 1/2 the wood int he 602N I could get that stove up to 600-700 easily. That’s not my normal range BTW.
So, what’s the deal? Can that tiny 602N really heat better than the F100? I see one other person on this thread think so. I am wondering if there’s anyone else who does too. I just don’t get it. The fire is lively and it’s not gettting hot.
One other thing for F100 owners. What’s that little valve for under the belly of the stove? Is that for outside air? I wonder if the fire would brun better if I opened it a bit, sucking in room air.
If this keeps up, I am dumping the F100 and putting my 16 year old 602N back into service!
Cheers!
Jim
Yes, the f100 is touchy to start, but its advantages outweigh its negatives, its not a stove for the lazy.
We have a fairly tight house, 1300sqft, R65 ceiling, 2×6 walls (R23?) and it heats it very well till about 10 below, especially now that I insulated the rim joist of my crawlspace(still need to glue on foam to the crawlspace walls).
We rarely have coals in the morning but once in a while if you use hedge(osage orange) you will. Never had smoke in the house, or even smell of smoke. I did take great pains to due the chimney right, 6″metal insulated, about of foot off center of peak of ridge, 3 foot above ridge. If the wind is blowing strong the draft is too good, have to close the air intake to fully closed to prevent overheating.
Once you get the hang of starting/loading and never deviate from it you can have toasty fires going in no time, until then you will question your sanity and curse your decision. Hang in there, it worth the price and once we got it down we wouldn’t have it any other way.
Have a Jotul 600 , to save a few sheckels , use newspaper and warm water to clean the glass , my manual says dip moistened paper in ashes which really works well , then I burn the paper. Going on 9 years with my Jotul and get lots of good comments.
To cheaply clean glass use newspaper with warm water dipped in ashes, it really works!
TOO MUCH PAPER! It is not necessary and will cause deposits on your stove and chimney especially if it has colored ink on it. No fail method to start fire in ANY stove: Lay 2 3-1/2″ pieces of split wood one at back of stove, one at front. Scramble LIGHTLY 2 or 3 pieces of newspaper and place between split wood to floor of stove. DO NOT PACK. Place another 3″ SPLIT piece of wood diagonally across the bottom pieces and paper. Or several smaller pieces. DO NOT PACK DOWN ANYTHING. Light paper. DO NOT WALK AWAY WITH THE DOOR OPEN A CRACK. This can crack the stove because it heats up too fast. When you live in Alaska and New Mexico, you learn how to start a stove immediately without any fighting with it. If you crack your stove, you’re a dead duck – better move back to town because nothing is going to get delivered or installed during winter. Not even if you do it yourself.
Just use a little vinegar on a paper towel to clean the glass.
Dear Sheridan: This post was from about 4 years ago, but thank you for your advice. A few things to note:
1) cracking the door 1/2 inch is directly from the Jotul owner’s manual. I have tried it both ways and the stove will not light without cracking the door for a minute or two, until the kindling wood catches.
2) The method described above works well in getting the wood stove temperature up to 400 degrees or so, which is the recommended operating temperature.
3) I cleaned the chimney this fall, there was nothing but a slight layer of brownish black soot, so the stove seems to be operating as it should be.
I’ve been burning this little stove for little over a year now, and am quite happy with it. I can’t understand those who think it’s difficult to start. I have no troubles. I start it like any other stove, and can have a roaring fire in a few minutes.
Notes: 1)It won’t really take 16″ wood. 14″ is just right.
2) There is a cast iron plate at the top of the fire box which can get dislodged if you jam a big log in there. When this happens, the air/smoke flow will not be correct. Keep an eye on it.
3) Another author stated that the air inlet is in the top rear. This is not correct. That’s only the secondary air. The primary air is in the top front, and sweeps down along the glass, thus keeping it relatively clean. When loading wood, you need to pay close attention to how you load it, and how the air is going to flow around it. If you don’t do this, it may not burn well at all. Thanks to the big window, you can see whether you’ve got it right or not. This is perhaps my biggest grumble with the stove. On the other hand, you can make a log burn either quickly or slowly, depending upon how you place it, so that gives some nice options for controlling heat.
We installed the Jotul Nordic f100 last month (first fire on Christmas) and absolutely love it. Contrary to the specs, this little guy heats the whole 1200 sq ft house by itself, during the day. That’s with 15 below (f) and 20 mph wind. Admittedly our house here in Alaska is quite well insulated, and the bedrooms, at the far end, are comfortably cooler. I knew this is a small stove when we bought it, so I can’t see complaining because it won’t burn all night. Definately happy with it
Thinking of buying this model heater, but my question is can you place a cast iron pot on top & cook on it
JP;
Probably not very well. The textured top surface would not allow very much contact area with the pot, to start the cooking (Tho it would likely keep something nice and hot, once started on the kitchen stove). It’s no doubt that surface, which helps this little guy radiate the heat so well.
I agree that it did look like you filled your box pretty tight, but if it work it works! Good firewood is also key to keeping it going and hot.
Can anyone tell me how wide the stove is when the handle is at its widest point (i.e opening)?
Although not the same stove as in this thread…. I just had my Jotul F3 delivered today and looking forward to using it in our ELECTRICALLY heated house in CT! I’ve heard a few horror stories about people not getting properly seasoned wood, etc., so I also just purchased 2 tons of the Evni Logs. Should be a fun experience!
To be continued in a few months….
JJ
I recently bought a nearly new Jotul F100 which came with the top plate fixed in place. Can anyone confirm that the top plate must be placed on and not screwed in place as per the installation instructions? I’m using the top flue outlet and am concerned that although the top plate is a heavy item the weight of the flue at the back of the plate could cause a poor seal at the front. If this proves to be the case is it safe to screw the top plate on at the fixing points provided? I can’t seem to get an answer from Jotul so was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience?
I have been using my F100 for about a year and am very disappointed in the performance. I have requested assistance from Jotul, but have received nothing. Jotul will only talk with the dealers and not with a customer. The local dealer was no help and requested that I call Jotul directly. I can start a fire just fine, not sure about all the posts about starting a fire. Mine has always started great and burns great. Beautiful fire and flame. However, the temperature rarly gets above 450F. The flue temp is about 400F. I am burning seasoned hardwood (maple, oak and some elm-best we can get in Colorado). The stove barely heats a 200 SF room. I have never been able to boil water on the stove. Stove temperatures are about 500F on the sides and 300F on the top. I started a fire when the room was 64F and outside was about 20. After 5 hours, the room was 72F. My house is well insulated and new R=3 windows. I check the draft and it exceeds the spec. I have also noticed the little opening in the bottom of the stove (Jim’s post from March 2010). There is a slot opening (1/4″ by about 2″) in the bottom back right of the stove bottom-under the grate. A plate is bolted to the underside of the stove that covers the opening. No one can tell me what that opening is for, except one manual indicates that is the ignition air. There is however, no way to adjust the exterior plate.
A friend has a Vermont Casting Aspen (about 1/2 the heat output) which can heat her 600 SF uninsulated house and boil water.
Very disappointed with the stove and Jotul customer service. I wouldn’t buy another Jotul stove again.
I installed one a f100 2 weeks ago. I haven’t used a wood stove since I was a kid in the 80s and this one fires up pretty easy in my mind. I do find this it’s best to get most of the ash out before trying to start, but it can get going with minimal fuss. If the wood is good, a couple of pieces of fat wood on the bottom of a clean stove, and you are off. My house is 1000 sf in CT and we’ve had a couple cold nights. Last weekend 70% of the state was without power…. we weren’t but as a test, we never turned on the oil furnace once and it kept up quite nicely. As another note, I have a short manufactured chimney (about 12 ft total) but with only about 2.5 feet outside so I think that helps.
I used an old Jotul F3 for about 20 years while living in MA, cold winters, power outages, etc. our house stayed warm and cozy. I loved that it would keep the heat overnight and in the morning just by opening the air vent in the front and the chimney flue damper I could start a fire again.
Now in Northern Italy we bought a new generation Jotul F3 with a catalytic burner, supposed to be burning cleaner, more efficiently. I am getting used to it, it does not work the same way as my old one. The wood used here is different as well, very hard to start.
My problem is when the fire gets going, it just keeps going until hardly anything is left. I am not having good success with the two vents in the front, for air control. This chimney does not have a flue damper (as my old one in the US did). Is there a trick as to how best to use the two vents on the door? The new F3 has one front vent at the bottom of the door and one on top.
your thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.