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	<title>Comments on: National Electrical Code explained in English</title>
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	<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/</link>
	<description>Home improvement with an eye toward sustainability</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:58:51 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: john</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-999</link>
		<dc:creator>john</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 01:58:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-999</guid>
		<description>Just a real quick question,Do all rental properties have to have a 20 amp gfi outlet installed in bathroom were no outlet existed or any other outlet</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just a real quick question,Do all rental properties have to have a 20 amp gfi outlet installed in bathroom were no outlet existed or any other outlet</p>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-177</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Sep 2011 21:20:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-177</guid>
		<description>Great post, yes it helps those who are aware of codes, need a quick overview and idea of what materials they&#039;ll need (to supply)  What&#039;s so vitally important here is these a minimum specs for safety (burn down house) AND when you go to refinance or sell where a home inspection is required, you&#039;ll often be required to pay to have your upgrades removed and done right as they are obviously not to code or original.  Worse, you may loose your buyer or the house burns and insurance denies claim due to non-compliance with the law that specifies you must have upgrades inspected.  LOTs of cheater (non-CTL) double breakers fall into this category.  I&#039;ve seen a lot of new 100 AMP main boxes installed with same wire from the meter sized for 60amps.  Then they add 50% more conductors by tandem breakers...pushing the heat build-up in the box past the max in summer&#039;s direct sunlight on 100 degree day with bigger AC unit to cool the enlarged house... House burns down, owner cited and charged for violations, insurance doesn&#039;t pay, credit ruined.  Saved $2-500 on installation though!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great post, yes it helps those who are aware of codes, need a quick overview and idea of what materials they&#8217;ll need (to supply)  What&#8217;s so vitally important here is these a minimum specs for safety (burn down house) AND when you go to refinance or sell where a home inspection is required, you&#8217;ll often be required to pay to have your upgrades removed and done right as they are obviously not to code or original.  Worse, you may loose your buyer or the house burns and insurance denies claim due to non-compliance with the law that specifies you must have upgrades inspected.  LOTs of cheater (non-CTL) double breakers fall into this category.  I&#8217;ve seen a lot of new 100 AMP main boxes installed with same wire from the meter sized for 60amps.  Then they add 50% more conductors by tandem breakers&#8230;pushing the heat build-up in the box past the max in summer&#8217;s direct sunlight on 100 degree day with bigger AC unit to cool the enlarged house&#8230; House burns down, owner cited and charged for violations, insurance doesn&#8217;t pay, credit ruined.  Saved $2-500 on installation though!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Steve</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-176</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Sep 2011 20:44:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-176</guid>
		<description>A friend is wanting to install a generator at his home. he has two 200 amp services. He only wants to backup the one panel. When they came to work up ans est. they said he needed to upgrade to a 4 wire entrance wiring that is now required by NEC. Is this a new requirement?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A friend is wanting to install a generator at his home. he has two 200 amp services. He only wants to backup the one panel. When they came to work up ans est. they said he needed to upgrade to a 4 wire entrance wiring that is now required by NEC. Is this a new requirement?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-175</link>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:33:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-175</guid>
		<description>It&#039;s very unfortunate that the Code has to be purchased and is not available as an online resource. One would think if someone is taking the time to inquire about doing something properly and safely, they should not have to pay to do so. Encourages more people to just wing-it (ie. likely do things wrong/dangerously) than do it right. Seems a flawed system to me...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s very unfortunate that the Code has to be purchased and is not available as an online resource. One would think if someone is taking the time to inquire about doing something properly and safely, they should not have to pay to do so. Encourages more people to just wing-it (ie. likely do things wrong/dangerously) than do it right. Seems a flawed system to me&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Dave</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-174</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Apr 2011 12:44:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-174</guid>
		<description>Does the code allow me to run 12/3 to a J-box and split it off to two 12/2 circuits for the kitchen counter?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Does the code allow me to run 12/3 to a J-box and split it off to two 12/2 circuits for the kitchen counter?</p>
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		<title>By: Brent</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-173</link>
		<dc:creator>Brent</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Feb 2011 21:52:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-173</guid>
		<description>Hi Paul,

When installing a switch or outlet in an existing wall, is it required to anchor the cable to a framing member at the specified intervals? This is difficult to impractical in some situations, but not doing so seems to violate the spirit of the rules.  A cable hanging loose in a wall cavity could easily be resting against the back face of the drywall, waiting to be poked by a nail.  I&#039;ve seen tons of articles and videos describing the installation process, but none I&#039;ve found address this particular issue.

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul,</p>
<p>When installing a switch or outlet in an existing wall, is it required to anchor the cable to a framing member at the specified intervals? This is difficult to impractical in some situations, but not doing so seems to violate the spirit of the rules.  A cable hanging loose in a wall cavity could easily be resting against the back face of the drywall, waiting to be poked by a nail.  I&#8217;ve seen tons of articles and videos describing the installation process, but none I&#8217;ve found address this particular issue.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Nancy</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-172</link>
		<dc:creator>Nancy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Nov 2010 16:19:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-172</guid>
		<description>Hi Paul,

We are knocking out a wall. where there happens to be a Service Entry box.Is it againt Va NEC to install the Box in the ceiling? making sure of course that it is easy accessed.The wires coming in to and out of the box are not long enough to move to another wall. If we did want to move it to another wall. We would have to have the electric turned off by our provider and wait for an inspector to look at the box and then wait for the electric provider to come and turn the power back on.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Paul,</p>
<p>We are knocking out a wall. where there happens to be a Service Entry box.Is it againt Va NEC to install the Box in the ceiling? making sure of course that it is easy accessed.The wires coming in to and out of the box are not long enough to move to another wall. If we did want to move it to another wall. We would have to have the electric turned off by our provider and wait for an inspector to look at the box and then wait for the electric provider to come and turn the power back on.</p>
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		<title>By: Fernando</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-171</link>
		<dc:creator>Fernando</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 20:43:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-171</guid>
		<description>It is EMT allowed in industrial installations?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is EMT allowed in industrial installations?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Paul</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-170</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 11:20:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-170</guid>
		<description>That is not correct.  A split phase 240 volt circuit consists of two 120 volt circuits that are 180 degrees a part in phase relationship.  A 120 volt 20 amp circuit requires a 12 gauge wire or greater.  In fact any 20 amp circuit, regardless of the voltage requires at least 12 gauge wire.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That is not correct.  A split phase 240 volt circuit consists of two 120 volt circuits that are 180 degrees a part in phase relationship.  A 120 volt 20 amp circuit requires a 12 gauge wire or greater.  In fact any 20 amp circuit, regardless of the voltage requires at least 12 gauge wire.</p>
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		<title>By: Philip</title>
		<link>http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-169</link>
		<dc:creator>Philip</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 07:11:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-169</guid>
		<description>Hi

Your article lists &quot;Minimum required wire size for circuit breaker (copper wire) (NEC 240.3)&quot; is this for 120V circuits or does it also apply to 230V single phase circuits? It seems to me it should be perfectly legal to use 14 gauge wire for a 240V 20A drop as long as the length of the run/voltage drop does not exceed requirements, is that correct or is there some other rule that I am unaware of? Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi</p>
<p>Your article lists &#8220;Minimum required wire size for circuit breaker (copper wire) (NEC 240.3)&#8221; is this for 120V circuits or does it also apply to 230V single phase circuits? It seems to me it should be perfectly legal to use 14 gauge wire for a 240V 20A drop as long as the length of the run/voltage drop does not exceed requirements, is that correct or is there some other rule that I am unaware of? Thanks</p>
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