Comments on: National Electrical Code explained in English http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/ Home improvement with an eye toward sustainability Tue, 15 May 2012 12:39:03 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 By: CKD http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2724 CKD Wed, 02 May 2012 23:00:08 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2724 Does anyone know if the NEC states that cable supports (e.g. cable tray, ladder rack, conduits, etc...) that support telecommunications cabling must be installed by an licensed electrician. If so, please let me know where. I greatly appreciate any insight on this matter. Does anyone know if the NEC states that cable supports (e.g. cable tray, ladder rack, conduits, etc…) that support telecommunications cabling must be installed by an licensed electrician. If so, please let me know where. I greatly appreciate any insight on this matter.

]]> By: Ernie http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2710 Ernie Sat, 07 Apr 2012 23:11:26 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2710 Im replacing my range hood with a range hood microwave. Im going to need to run a new 12/2 line off a 20 amp breaker because the current hood is on a 15 amp breaker shared with the hallway lights and bathroom lights and outlets. I can't remove the wiring for the old hood without tearing out a bunch of drywall. And I can't even find where it splits off to the range hood. Can I just terminate the live wires in a junction box? Or should I just have 2 outlets in the cabinet above the range, 1 for the old wiring and 1 new one? Im replacing my range hood with a range hood microwave. Im going to need to run a new 12/2 line off a 20 amp breaker because the current hood is on a 15 amp breaker shared with the hallway lights and bathroom lights and outlets. I can’t remove the wiring for the old hood without tearing out a bunch of drywall. And I can’t even find where it splits off to the range hood. Can I just terminate the live wires in a junction box? Or should I just have 2 outlets in the cabinet above the range, 1 for the old wiring and 1 new one?

]]> By: Nathan http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2704 Nathan Wed, 04 Apr 2012 22:03:31 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2704 Paul, Actually that is not true. A short will trip a circuit breaker regardless of amperage. You are definitely allowed to run #14 connected to #20 when ONLY lights are to be installed. Paul,

Actually that is not true. A short will trip a circuit breaker regardless of amperage. You are definitely allowed to run #14 connected to #20 when ONLY lights are to be installed.

]]> By: Tim http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2699 Tim Tue, 03 Apr 2012 01:10:16 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-2699 A quick comment on removing unused wires. My Dad taught me a trick that I've used an, it makes a load of sense. Don't just cap each wire with a wire nut. Short them all together with a wire nut and electrical tape. If you ever do connect the other end, the breaker will trip right away. I've no idea what NEC or inspectors think of this, but it was a necessity in my last house where my re-wire was MUCH safer than what was in the house when I bought it. A quick comment on removing unused wires. My Dad taught me a trick that I’ve used an, it makes a load of sense. Don’t just cap each wire with a wire nut. Short them all together with a wire nut and electrical tape. If you ever do connect the other end, the breaker will trip right away. I’ve no idea what NEC or inspectors think of this, but it was a necessity in my last house where my re-wire was MUCH safer than what was in the house when I bought it.

]]> By: john http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-999 john Sat, 11 Feb 2012 01:58:32 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-999 Just a real quick question,Do all rental properties have to have a 20 amp gfi outlet installed in bathroom were no outlet existed or any other outlet Just a real quick question,Do all rental properties have to have a 20 amp gfi outlet installed in bathroom were no outlet existed or any other outlet

]]> By: Dave http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-177 Dave Mon, 26 Sep 2011 21:20:11 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-177 Great post, yes it helps those who are aware of codes, need a quick overview and idea of what materials they'll need (to supply) What's so vitally important here is these a minimum specs for safety (burn down house) AND when you go to refinance or sell where a home inspection is required, you'll often be required to pay to have your upgrades removed and done right as they are obviously not to code or original. Worse, you may loose your buyer or the house burns and insurance denies claim due to non-compliance with the law that specifies you must have upgrades inspected. LOTs of cheater (non-CTL) double breakers fall into this category. I've seen a lot of new 100 AMP main boxes installed with same wire from the meter sized for 60amps. Then they add 50% more conductors by tandem breakers...pushing the heat build-up in the box past the max in summer's direct sunlight on 100 degree day with bigger AC unit to cool the enlarged house... House burns down, owner cited and charged for violations, insurance doesn't pay, credit ruined. Saved $2-500 on installation though! Great post, yes it helps those who are aware of codes, need a quick overview and idea of what materials they’ll need (to supply) What’s so vitally important here is these a minimum specs for safety (burn down house) AND when you go to refinance or sell where a home inspection is required, you’ll often be required to pay to have your upgrades removed and done right as they are obviously not to code or original. Worse, you may loose your buyer or the house burns and insurance denies claim due to non-compliance with the law that specifies you must have upgrades inspected. LOTs of cheater (non-CTL) double breakers fall into this category. I’ve seen a lot of new 100 AMP main boxes installed with same wire from the meter sized for 60amps. Then they add 50% more conductors by tandem breakers…pushing the heat build-up in the box past the max in summer’s direct sunlight on 100 degree day with bigger AC unit to cool the enlarged house… House burns down, owner cited and charged for violations, insurance doesn’t pay, credit ruined. Saved $2-500 on installation though!

]]> By: Steve http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-176 Steve Wed, 14 Sep 2011 20:44:02 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-176 A friend is wanting to install a generator at his home. he has two 200 amp services. He only wants to backup the one panel. When they came to work up ans est. they said he needed to upgrade to a 4 wire entrance wiring that is now required by NEC. Is this a new requirement? A friend is wanting to install a generator at his home. he has two 200 amp services. He only wants to backup the one panel. When they came to work up ans est. they said he needed to upgrade to a 4 wire entrance wiring that is now required by NEC. Is this a new requirement?

]]> By: John http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-175 John Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:33:39 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-175 It's very unfortunate that the Code has to be purchased and is not available as an online resource. One would think if someone is taking the time to inquire about doing something properly and safely, they should not have to pay to do so. Encourages more people to just wing-it (ie. likely do things wrong/dangerously) than do it right. Seems a flawed system to me... It’s very unfortunate that the Code has to be purchased and is not available as an online resource. One would think if someone is taking the time to inquire about doing something properly and safely, they should not have to pay to do so. Encourages more people to just wing-it (ie. likely do things wrong/dangerously) than do it right. Seems a flawed system to me…

]]> By: Dave http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-174 Dave Sat, 16 Apr 2011 12:44:33 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-174 Does the code allow me to run 12/3 to a J-box and split it off to two 12/2 circuits for the kitchen counter? Does the code allow me to run 12/3 to a J-box and split it off to two 12/2 circuits for the kitchen counter?

]]> By: Brent http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-173 Brent Tue, 22 Feb 2011 21:52:50 +0000 http://www.catskillhouse.us/wordpress/national-electrical-code-explained-in-english/#comment-173 Hi Paul, When installing a switch or outlet in an existing wall, is it required to anchor the cable to a framing member at the specified intervals? This is difficult to impractical in some situations, but not doing so seems to violate the spirit of the rules. A cable hanging loose in a wall cavity could easily be resting against the back face of the drywall, waiting to be poked by a nail. I've seen tons of articles and videos describing the installation process, but none I've found address this particular issue. Thanks Hi Paul,

When installing a switch or outlet in an existing wall, is it required to anchor the cable to a framing member at the specified intervals? This is difficult to impractical in some situations, but not doing so seems to violate the spirit of the rules. A cable hanging loose in a wall cavity could easily be resting against the back face of the drywall, waiting to be poked by a nail. I’ve seen tons of articles and videos describing the installation process, but none I’ve found address this particular issue.

Thanks

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