For a related post on setting wellpump pressure switches, check here. The well that came with the house is a shallow old tile well that is dug over a spring. This is located across the street on somebody else’s property. It is about 15 feet deep, but has produced an amazing amount of water, even during the quasi drought of last summer. Of course, the pump had seen better days. The nice thing about the shallow well jet pump is it is located inside, right next to the tank. That meant service and replacement should be pretty easy.
The Goulds 1/2 HP J5s pump had very loud bearings, perhaps because it had been repeatedly submerged by basement flooding over its life time. It seemed to work fine, but in the middle of the night, when the water filter was back washing. The noise in our daughter’s room, directly above the pump, was quite obnoxious. I thought about replacing the motor, but decided it was worth it to replace the whole pump instead.
One day I took the bull by the horns and purchased a new Myers QDshallow well jet pump to replace the aging, noisy pump in the basement.
After I got the pump home, I notice the box had been opened. A Minor detail I thought.
First I removed the old pump. I closed the shut off valve and turned off the circuit breaker. Then I drained the pump case and water line into a pail. I had to hacksaw the pipe between the pump and the water tank because there was no union. I then removed the pressure gauge, chemical feed line, and the electric wires.
The old pump was sitting on a couple of cinder blocks with a rotten piece of plywood under it. It was not bolted down to anything. I made a pump stand out of pressure treated 2 x 4s and attached some uni-strut to bolt the new pump to. I also ran a new electric line using 12/3 MC to the breaker box and installed a 2 pole 240 volt shut off switch. Before I connected the electric, I made sure the pump was set for 240 volts, the default setting was 110 volts.
I got the pump all bolted down nice and snug. Then I connected the 3/4 inch water line to the tank. I made sure that I put a union in between the shut off valve and the tank. I used new threaded brass adaptors to transition the 1 1/2 inch pump output to the 3/4 inch copper water tank pipe.
I then connected the PEX from the well to the input side of the pump and primed. Most Jet pumps need to be primed before they will generate enough suction to pull the water out of the well. The priming port on the top of the pump casing allows the pump to be filled with water before turning it on.
I happily watched the pump run, the water pressure in the tank started going up, the pump shut off, all is well. I wiped up all the water on the floor, put away all the tools and just before I turned out the light, wait a minute, here is another puddle of water.
Got the rags back out, wiped up the water then I noticed the bolts on the pump casing had a little scuffing on them. Drip, Drip, Drip a nice steady drip of water from the pump casing where it was bolted to the motor. Ah-Ha! That is why the box was open, the casing leaks.
Drain the pump, disconnect the electric, the chemical feed, remove the gauges, pull off the water lines, and write “LEAKS” on the pump motor in big letters with a sharpie. Box it back up and head out to the hardware store. I was a little miffed.
I spoke with the manager, who got me another pump and took 15 percent off of the price for my troubles. I told him that the returned pump had to be sent back to the manufacture and that I had written