The deck is done and ready for the final inspection by the town building department. When that has been passed I receive the CO (certificate of occupancy). This has been a fun project and I learned quite a few things. First, dealing with the town building department has been easier than I thought it would. I can’t imagine why somebody would take it upon themselves to build unauthorized structures on their property. It can create many problems with insurance, tax adjusters, and possibly transferring the property. Building codes are in place to insure constructed properly and are safe to inhabit.

I found the building department personnel to be helpful, answering any questions I had, doing inspections in a timely manner, etc. If you involve them and ask their advice, often they become friendly and the inspections are a breeze. Now, it may not be like that in all municipalities, but in smaller towns and cities, it seems it would be pretty easy to get friendly with the building department.
As for the deck itself, it seems to have taken a long time to build from start to finish. I had a very busy summer this year, with several trips out of state for family reasons. I think if I added up the total hours I worked on it, it would come out to about 35 to 40 hours or so, including digging the footings. Digging the footings was by far the worst part of the whole project. Crawling around in the crawl space bolting the stringers to the side of the house was second. The actual framing was pretty easy, and screwing down the deck boards was easy, although repetitive.
I am not sure how these prices will hold up, but for the summer of 2007, the total cost break down looks something like this:
| Nomenclature | Number | Cost Each ($) | Total ($) |
| cardboard Sonotubes, 8 x 48 inches | 3 | 6.38 | 19.14 |
| #4 (1/2″) Rebar, 48 inch | 8 | 2.12 | 16.96 |
| 1/2×8 inch J bolts | 3 | 1.57 | 4.71 |
| Steel Wire 18 ga, 500 foot roll | 1 | 3.59 | 3.59 |
| Sakrete ready mix concrete, 80 pound bag | 8 | 4.95 | 39.60 |
| Joist hanger, galvanized straight single | 32 | 0.69 | * |
| Joist hanger, 45 degree RH single | 4 | 6.79 | 27.16 |
| Joist hanger, galvanized straight double | 1 | 2.19 | 2.19 |
| Joist hangers, 90 degree corner bracket | 4 | 1.19 | 4.76 |
| Post mount brackets 6×6 | 3 | 16.27 | * |
| Carriage bolt 1/2 inch by 5 inch galvanized | 4 | 1.87 | 7.48 |
| Carriage bolt 1/2 inch by 8 inch galvanized | 12 | 2.00 | 24.00 |
| Carriage bolt 1/2 inch by 10 inch galvanized | 2 | 2.35 | 4.70 |
| Hex nut, 1/2 inch galvanized | 22 | 0.14 | 3.08 |
| Flat cut washer, 1/2 inch galvanized | 22 | 0.25 | 5.50 |
| Screw, 4 inch stainless steel square drive, 1 lb box | 4 | 13.49 | 53.96 |
| Screw, 2 inch, galvanized square drive, treated wood rated 1 lb box | 4 | 6.97 | 27.88 |
| Butyl membrane, 18 inches by 52 feet roll | 1 | 45.75 | 45.75 |
| Aluminum flashing 18 inches by 50 feet roll | 1 | 35.95 | ** |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 2X10 16 foot | 4 | 19.59 | 76.60 |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 2X10 8 foot | 4 | 8.77 | 35.08 |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 2X8 14 foot | 9 | 15.97 | * |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 5/8X6 12 foot | 15 | 10.97 | 164.55 |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 5/8X6 10 foot | 16 | 8.97 | 143.52 |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 5/8X6 8 foot | 6 | 7.97 | 63.76 |
| Lumber, ACQ .40 treated 6X6 8 foot | 1 | 19.97 | * |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 4X4 8 foot | 1 | 7.97 | * |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 2X4 8 foot | 2 | 6.78 | 6.78 |
| Lumber, ACQ .25 treated 2X6 8 foot | 1 | 5.97 | 5.97 |
| Lumber, white cedar 1/2X4 6 foot | 10 | 1.69 | ** |
| 1/2 inch wire mesh fence, 18 inches by 50 feet | 1 | 19.98 | 19.98 |
| Thompson’s Water Seal, gallon | 3 | 9.98 | 29.94 |
*Some or all of these items were given to me by Jay, who removed a deck from the back of his house and replaced it with a screened in porch this summer.
**These items were on hand from other projects around the house.
The building permit cost $45.00 and the rental of the post hole digger cost $89.10, so therefore the total cost for building the deck was: $970.74
The actual deck size is 170 Square Feet, so the cost to build it myself was $5.71 per square foot. I estimate I saved about $1,500 in labor. The average cost for a wood deck in this area is $15-25 per square foot if you have somebody else do all the work.
By using some salvaged lumber and and joints hangers and things I already had on hand, I saved: $331.36
Treated lumber comes in several different flavors. Since about 2003 or so, the primary treatment product for pressure treated wood has been ACQ, which stands for Alkaline Copper Quaternary. This replaced
CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate), which contained arsenic. ACQ is a pesticide and is toxic to humans. You must take the proper precautions when handling this material such as wearing gloves and a dust mask when cutting, and disposing excess material in a land fill. You should never burn treated lumber and don’t use sawdust and scraps as mulch, etc. For more information, see the ACQ safe handling sheet.
Basically, pressure treated lumber is rated by retention of ACQ in pounds per cubic foot of wood (lb/CuFt). That give and indication of how much wood preservative is present after the pressure treatment process. These are the applications:
- Above Ground – 0.25 – Decking, fence boards, hand rails, deck supports
- Ground Contact Fresh Water – 0.40 – Fence posts, landscaping, piers, docks,
etc. - Permanent Wood Foundations – 0.60 – Wood foundations, crawl spaces
- Poles – 0.60 – Building, transmission and distribution poles
Overall, I can say that I learned quite a bit, and had fun building the deck.
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The deck looks great! Are you planning on doing something with the siding before winter?
Todd, yes, but I don’t know exactly what at the moment. I was going to have a contractor replace all the siding on the house this year, but that looks like it is not in the cards. Before I do that, I have to repair the deck on the front of the house, so it is partly a time issue right now. If I can’t get to the siding this year I may tyvek it for the winter and deal with it in the spring.
I would suggest Typar instead of Tyvek. It holds up much better to UV and it’s usually cheaper. What kind of siding are you planning on installing?
Todd, good information on the typar, I will look around and see if the local Williams building supply has it, I think they do. As for the siding itself, I haven’t made any decisions yet, my wife and I are still talking about colors. I was looking at Georgia Pacific, I forget the number, it is there heavier product line supposed to stand up to quite a bit. We get a good deal of wind around here in the winter and I want something that is going to last a while
Paul,
I suggest a panel thickness of 0.046″ if you can get it. I also recommend a 5/8″ exposure if you can get it. By spending the extra $$ on quality vinyl you’ll be really satisfied not only with the look but the performance!