I wrote a post about our new pressure tank, which has an air bladder installed in it. Our old pressure tank does not have a air bladder installed. Pressure tanks work under the principle that gases can be compressed, while liquids cannot. When the pressure in the tank drops, the well pump turns on and pumps water into the tank, compressing the air bubble at the top of the tank. If there is no air bubble, the pump will cycle on and off very quickly causing a possible motor burnout in the well pump.
If you have a bladder tank, the installer should have charged it properly, and once charged, it will not loose its air charge. A non-bladder tank will, over time, loose its air charge because the air will dissolve in the water and disappear out of the various faucets. Therefore a non-bladder tank should be recharged regularly with air. If you suspect a tank is completely water logged, it will not hurt to put a little air in and see if it makes a difference. The air fittings look like tire fill valves, and are normally located near the top of the tank, possibly next to the pressure gauge. You can add air with a bicycle pump, I would start by adding enough air to make the pressure gauge go up 10 PSI.
To completely recharge the tank, turn off the pump and run the water until the pressure gauge reads zero. Add air until you reach the pump cut in pressure (low pressure setting where the pump turns on). Then turn the pump back on. This is the proper amount of air for your pressure tank. The pressure gauge should go up slowly until it reaches the cut out pressure (high pressure setting when the pump turns off).
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I have a 32 gal bladder tank with a 40/60 presure switch with 38 PSI air pressure in the tank when empty of water, all installed in the basement. Then there is the ground floor and second story baths. Recently, 2nd story shower started trickling at the bottom of the cycle (40 psi) then slowly given enough time, rebuild pressure to an acceptable range. Ground floor sink pressure is low at these times too. we always have had decent 2nd story pressure. I drained the system and added the 38psi(1st time it was 0 psi)turned efery thing back on and had sand blast presure on the 2nd story for 3 days. Now, it’s back to no pressure up there and the air pressure is still 38 psi in the top of the tank when drained. We agin have trickling showers on the 2nd floor. I have watched the cycle operate down to 40 then up to 60 as the water faucet is left open and it seems pretty normal. I have a new tank ready to install but i’m not sure if it’s the problem or not. May be the pressure switch? it seems to work. I am really confused,
From what you’re describing, it sounds like everything on your system is functioning properly, although your tank is sure to be failed. They are often the first thing to degrade in well water systems due to worn out diaphrams. What happens is the diaphram begins to break down and the water enters the upper portion of the tank and therefor reduces the ability to maintain a constant range of pressure throughout your water system. My suggestion would be to replace the tank and keep all your current pressure settings the same. Replacing the tank should solve your problem. If not, use a prosses of elimination to check the rest of the system. I hope this helps.
Hi. My question is slightly random.
I have a green tank just like the one in your picture above. I am building a smithy and it was given to me to use as a body for my forge. I cut it open today and found the inside is coated in black shiny stuff. Do you know what it is? Teflon or ceramic maybe? Depending what it is, I may not be able to use it for my intended purposes.
Thanks.
Ashlea.