Water Logged Pressure Tank

I wrote a post about our new pressure tank, which has an air bladder installed in it. Our old pressure tank does not have a air bladder installed. Pressure tanks work under the principle that gases can be compressed, while liquids cannot. When the pressure in the tank drops, the well pump turns on and pumps water into the tank, compressing the air bubble at the top of the tank. If there is no air bubble, the pump will cycle on and off very quickly causing a possible motor burnout in the well pump.

Old rusting bladderless pressure tank

Old rusting bladderless pressure tank

If you have a bladder tank, the installer should have charged it properly, and once charged, it will not loose its air charge. A non-bladder tank will, over time, loose its air charge because the air will dissolve in the water and disappear out of the various faucets. Therefore a non-bladder tank should be recharged regularly with air. If you suspect a tank is completely water logged, it will not hurt to put a little air in and see if it makes a difference. The air fittings look like tire fill valves, and are normally located near the top of the tank, possibly next to the pressure gauge. You can add air with a bicycle pump, I would start by adding enough air to make the pressure gauge go up 10 PSI.

Pressure tank air fitting

Pressure tank air fitting

To completely recharge the tank, turn off the pump and run the water until the pressure gauge reads zero. Add air until you reach the pump cut in pressure (low pressure setting where the pump turns on). Then turn the pump back on. This is the proper amount of air for your pressure tank. The pressure gauge should go up slowly until it reaches the cut out pressure (high pressure setting when the pump turns off).

Pressure tank, adding air

Pressure tank, adding air

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63 comments to Water Logged Pressure Tank

  • Iftikhar Ahmad

    1. I want to know where to place the pressure switch for its proper working, especially when the shallow water pump is used with bladderless tank.

    2. What difference it will make if the pressure tank is placed on different heights with respect to the pump.

  • As long as you are using a pressure tank (properly charged, either with or without bladder), the pressure switch on a shallow well jet pump should be on or near the pump. This simplifies the electrical wiring to the pump motor.

    If you have the pressure tank located a great deal higher than the pump and switch, It may be wise to relocated the pressure switch to the tank, provided the jet pump can work against the higher pressure (depends on motor rating). This is because the pressure switch will interpret the static head (height of the pressure tank above the location of the switch) as system pressure or pressure tank pressure, and thus your system pressure will be reduced.

    To convert static head to PSI multiply the height in feet by 0.434 (for average water temp of 62 degrees F). Therefore, if you pressure tank is located 35 feet above your pressure switch, the static head would be 15.2 PSI, so your system pressure would be reduced by that much.

    Hope that helps.

  • Iftikhar Ahmad

    When water is not flowing and pump is switched off by pressure switch. at that time, is pressure in the system equal at every point?. Please shed some detail on this.

  • Yes, the pressure will be equal in all parts of the system.

  • Iftikhar Ahmad

    Thank you clearing my confusion. Next week I am going to buy a submersible pump for installation into my well. There are two types in the local market, 1. centrifugal 2. screw types. Please advise which one will work better with the pressure tank system.

  • Most submersible well pumps are designed to go in a 6 or 8 inch casing. For that application, the screw type pump works the best. If a well casing is not a concern, then either type pump will work.

  • Norma Jean

    I have water coming out of the faucets but with very low pressure. What do i need to do to get water pressure back?

  • I am assuming you have a well and not city water. It depends on the symptoms, is the pump cycling on and off frequently? If so, you have a water logged pressure tank, if not you can try adjusting your pressure switch (see “Well pump pressure switch” in the related posts above.

  • Norma Jean

    No. I’m not hearing it cycling on or off. Changed the pressure tank. How do I check to see if it’s not my pressure switch?

  • Does your tank have a pressure gauge like the one in the picture above? If so, it should read no lower than say 20 to 30 pounds per square inch (PSI) depending on the type of pressure switch you have. If it is reading normally (between 20 to 60 PSI) then you may have some sort of obstruction in your pipes that lead to the rest of the house, or you may have too much head. In other words, you tank may be located too low for the rest of the house. This can happen with multi story buildings on the higher floors. Basically it means that there is not enough pressure to overcome gravity.

  • tom fleming

    i have what i believe is a waterlogged tank pump keeps kicking on and off constantly and the tank is full to the brim and i see no place to add air theres no valve , so should i drain tank all the way out and refill plese help me thanks high and dry in salem oregon

  • Hi Tom, sound like you are on track with the diagnosis. Sometimes they put the air fitting on the pipe coming into the tank and not on the tank itself. Look around and see if you see one, or you may need to add one.

    I don’t think draining the tank and refilling it will get enough air in the top of the tank to make a difference. The air pressure in your tank should be at or near the low pressure tank cut in for your pump, so between 20 to 30 PSI before there is any water in the tank itself.

  • Allen

    I tried pressurising the tank and forgot the tube to the pressure switch was not connected to the pump head, so when I applied pressure, water began streaming out of the fitting for the pressure switch, so thinking that I was getting excess water out of the tank but instead it seem to be filling the tank even though the shut off valve to the well was off so I need to know how to drain the water, as I have yet not been able to find a drain hole. Apparantly I was filling the tank with water because I can’t move the tank.Can you help?

  • There should be some sort of drain valve near the bottom of the tank which you can use.

  • Mike

    I just changed my hot water heater my pressure tank is mounted on top of the water heater now my pump will not turn on. all hook ups were done correctly i’m getting power to everything my pressure gage is reading 0 would this cause my pump to not opperate? is it possible that there is no air in the tank and that is causing my problem? I don’t know much about the tank except it is an old one and I believe it is probably about a 10 pound tank

  • Do you have a volt meter, if so, do you know how to use it? I would check the voltages on the pressure switch and make sure that you have power going to the switch. Lack of air in the pressure in the pressure tank should not make the pump not run. if anything it should cycle on and off more frequently, unless the pump motor is burned out.

  • Mike

    I only have a little meter that you touch the connections and when I do it there is 2 wires going into the switch 1 white 1 black and 2 going out they all read 110 volts each at the switch. Are they supose to be 220 each? as far as the pump is conserned its only about 4 years old and it was running fine before I disconnected everything. my switch is a Square D pumptrol pressure switch class 9013 FSG 2 it has 4 screws as I’m sure you know I have it wired as such, looking at the switch with the pressure adjustment screws in the back first screw has black wire coming into the switch screw 2 has white wire going out of the switch to the pump screw 3 is black wire going out to the pump screw 4 is white wire coming in. I hope you can understand this. Do you know of a sight that I can look at that will show me the wireing?

  • Mike,
    When I get home I will snap a picture of the wiring on my pressure switch. What I like to see is the wire colors kept the same. If you are looking down at the top of the switch, from left to right, the wires would look like this:
    (1) Black (supply from breaker panel) (2) Black (to well pump) (3) White, marked hot (supply from breaker panel) (4) White, marked hot (to well pump).
    I say marked hot because you are using what is normally a neutral wire as the second part of a 220 volt circuit. The NEC requires that wires used as such be marked with a stripe of back or red tape to indicate that they are not neutral wires. Across screw terminal 1 and 3 your should see 220 volts.

    With zero pressure in the tank, the switch should be pulled in, so you should also see 220 volts across screw terminal 2 and 4. If you have 220 volts on terminals 2 and 4, the problem is not the pressure switch, but is further down the line toward the well.

    If you measure across the terminals and get zero volts, reset the breaker, you are missing one side of your 220 volt circuit. If you still get zero volts measuring across the terminal, the problem is toward your breaker box.

    Be careful measuring those voltages, you should have somebody with you when you do this.

    Update: I uploaded a picture of the square D pumptrol pressure switch wiring. You can find it on the bottom of this post Well Pump Pressure Switch

  • Mike

    Thank you for the picture. I figured out from your last post that was what you were talking about, so I went ahead and tried it. before i wired it this way i checked the voltage and they were getting 220 across the terminals. But I went ahead and wired it the way you suggested and I was getting 277 across the terminals I figured this wasn’t a good thing so i changed it back. sence my last post to you i went and checked the voltage at the well going down to the pump and there is nothing there at all. I can asume my trouble will be some where in the wire going from the house (trailor) to the well pump. My guess from here is to replace that wire. another question for you when the wires come out of the switch it goes to another breaker and then goes to the pump when I changed the hot water tank I had to move the box the breaker is in. I only turned the box a little to mount it to another wall. I know these wires are very heavy and they don’t look to me like they can break very easy, but is that possible that when I turned the box to mount it to another wall that I broke a wire?

  • Mike, I would say that you could have broken a wire, or loosened a wire on a terminal by turning the box. I would check that before you replace the wire to the well. If you have 220 volts on the out put terminals of the second breaker box, then the problem is with the wire going to the well.

  • D Moore

    I have a water logged pump drained all the remaining water out. The I added air to the pressure valve 20-35 psi
    When I turned the power on and water main valve on I noticed air leak in one of the fittings close to pump housing. I could hear water pumping into the tank but seems like mostly air in the tank my faucets surged out with air some water not regular flow water tank still not full can you give me a solution how to get more water pumped into the tank

  • Wilhelmine

    Thanks Paul and to all the others. You’ve just saved me a $150 plumber’s call. Now I just have to figure out how to get the stem in the bicycle pump.

  • Jane

    desperate !!! burnt out points in pump…replaced pressure switch first..then points..finally got pump to work..began priming pump…have poured about 20 gl into very tiny orifice..cannot get primed..question ….did bladder tank lose air when pump went down ? will I need to add air to tank be4 it will prime ? Is it possible to wire anything backwards so pump cannot draw from well ? I am 62 yr old, disabled widow in Fl…cannot afford plumber at all..must do this alone…hoping for help..

  • Jane, I take it this is a jet pump. You need to prime the pump with zero back pressure which means the pressure tank needs to either have been disconnected, or the drain valve needs to be all the way open. Once you have the pump primed, let it pump about 5-10 gallons before closing valve/reconnecting pressure tank. It may take several tried to get it primed.
    The other problem you may have is a bad foot valve (valve at the bottom of the well). This is a type of check vavle that prevents the water from ruinning back into the well when the pump is off.
    A bad foot valve may also account for the burned out pressure switch (pump cycling on and off to maintain pressure).
    Good luck

  • Claude

    my pump is in the well i started having water problems no to little pressure i checked water guage it showed 30 psi when tap turned on pressure switch closes and presure is back up it cycles often you can see presure going up and down at sink then one time a noticed pressure switch closed but it didn tseem like pump was running. i ve put air in my pressure tank before when i notice it cycling a lot. a few years ago i had to change control panel for pump. how do i tell if problem is pump or control panel or pressure tank thanks

  • chris

    i thought my pressure tank’s bladder was done, we started running outta water after every shower. So i replaced the 20 gallon tank witha a 50 gallon and a new 30/50 pressure switch… now i still run out of water and when i flip the pressure switch back to run it will flip on and off rapidly until the presure gets to 30 psi. The pressure never gets higher then 30psi… whats the issue? (during installation I made sure the air in the tank was @ 28psi to match the switch.

  • Chuck D

    When there is NO pressure on a Square D type pressure switch one has to move the lever PAST the on position to make contact and start the pump. This is a “dry well” protection provision – when pressure goes to 0 the pump shuts off and does not restart by itself (It wants a human to look at the reason why pressure went to 0. Hold it is the “passed on” position till you see 10 to 15 pounds on the gauge THEN it will hold in by itself.

  • chris

    i have replaced my resivoir tank and now can’t get consistant pressure. My pressure drops when th faucets are open… tank has been adjusted to my pressure switch ( 28psi when lines empty) the water lines seem to have tons of air in them, what would cause this? never had a problem until my old tank started to fail/// HELP!!

  • tracey

    our presure gauge has quit clicking on and off and stays at 100 do we need a new switch or holding tank?

  • IF your pressure really is 100 PSI, I’d say your tank is in good shape and you need a new switch. How’s the water pressure in the house, feel like a sand blaster or is it somewhat normal? You could also have a bad pressure gauge, they get stuck every once in a while.

  • Denton

    I have as galvanized pressure tank that holds presure from 60psi to 35 psi turns off starts again at 60 psi back to 35 psi intervals of 2-5 seconds this is while running water inside

  • tracey

    Thankyou for the info. Our tank was water logged water was coming out the air vavle so we put a new tank in with a bladder.

  • Derrick

    Pump turns on and off in short cycles. I replaced the pressure switch with a new one, but it is still doing this. Pressure gauge shows around 50 lbs. and doesn’t drop much below 47-48 when it turns on again.

    When I shut off the pump to replace the pressure switch, I noticed the water pressure in the house immediately dropped to a very low pressure at the bathroom faucet. My well pump is a submersible down a 100 ft. well.

    The 100 lb. p.s.i. bladder tank was installed brand new about 6 years old and says it was pre-charged with 30 lbs.

  • Michelle

    Water just trickles out of my showerhead (like a faucet) instead of spraying out, like a shower. I have replaced the shower head with no improvement.
    The pressure reading on my water pressure tank is 7psi and when I tap on the tank, it sounds hollow about 1/3 up.  I’ve not done anything to this tank since I bought the house 7 years ago, but I did have the well pump replaced about 6 years ago. This part of the house is about 160 years old. I have no idea how old the tank is.
    The pump is located in a cement pit covered with heavy metal doors quite a distance from the house, so I can’t hear when it is running or tell if it is short cycling.
    What should I do? Add air to try to get above 7psi? Try to adjust the pressure switch so that it turns on at a higher psi (18 or 20)?

  • mike

    Yes, pressure in tank should be just below the cut-out pressure on your well. usually around 28psi when the pump is shut off and the water lines are empty. Try increasing the air pressure in the tank to around 25psi and see if that fixes your low pressure problem. worked for me….

  • Pete

    I have a pair of pumps and tanks configured in such a way that I could switch which one I want to run. Lately one of them takes so long to turn on that the water coming outta the faucet is very weak, then when it turns on and runs it takes forever to shut off, pressure gauge might be wonky. If it takes too long to shut off I pull the plug and the pressure switch  (square D) could then be manually flicked to off. I tried adjusting the cut on-off screws to no avail. What could be the problem? Not enough air inside the tank?

  • Lisa

    Our pressure tank is under ground some where and we have to replace it.  How far away from the well do they normally put them?  It will not repressurize after the water is turned off.  Do they normally put them in a concrete room under ground?

  • Mike Steadman

    I havean old galvanized pressure tank, probably 70′s.
    when water is turned on the pressure gauge stays at 50 psi and stays on until water is turned off. Gauge always reads 50 psi and turns on immedietly. The bicycle tire valve is located at the bottom of the tank and their are no gauges on the tank itself?
    Should I replace it rather than fixing and also, a well company said once I put on a new tank that the pump will probably burn out ?
    What say you?
    Thanks Mike

  • Jimbo

    Waterlogged Tank?!Ok – Ok – Ok! (my best Joe Pesci imitation)!  Turned off pump, closed pump valve,opened tank drain.  Drained to Zero pressure.  Closed drain valve, opened pump valve, turned on pump – tank refilled, cut off at 59 psi.   No air input, valve is automatic.   Flushed one toilet, pressure went to 39 psi – pump kicked in, reset  itself to 59 psi, pump stopped.  Tank holds at 59 psi.  What’s uppppppppp!  Any help greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Jimbo

  • Heather

    Hi we have a well for our residence, when it was initially installed there was no pressure gauge put on the tank. We tried using it with the set pressure and we also placed one of the home filtration systems on to keep the sand, etc.. out. This seemed to work fine and we did not have any problems with losing pressure after placing this. We had just built the house and lived there a few months with it set this way and no problems, however we wanted more pressure on the tank so we had the guy that initially put our pump down come out one day and place a pressure gauge on the pump. Once this was done we actually started losing pressure after a few weeks. We are using the same filters in the filtration system as before, however they were lasting for 4-6 months before and since the pressure gauge was put on they are having to be taken out after about 3-4 weeks. There is not a lot of sand, etc… in the filters when we have to remove them they are the same as before and they are recommended for up to 100psi. We only have ours set at 40-60psi and it cuts on and off just as it should. We just cannot figure out what is causing the pressure to go down all the time and this only started after the gauge was placed on. Should we remove the gauge? Please help, any suggestions would be great!!!! Thanks in advance!!!

  • My water tank is water logged full, nobicycle pump connectors. i turned off pump, closed warer supply to house. opened drain pipe on tank, at bottom, nothing comes out. tank is full. pressure reading on tank is 40. Please reply and tell me what to do, besides calling plumber. I need to water plants and that is when the pump turns off and on constantly. I’m afraid it will burn up my pump.

  • dan

    I have installed a new well tank, pressure switch, tee, guages ect. Had to relocate everthing  due o floor damage from the hold tank. ( Lots of water damage ). I moved everthing to another room 8 feet away from the incoming water from well pump. My house is a slab foundation home. I ran the new plumbing 7 feet up from the incoming water line a 8 feet over to the new location. I have good water press. in the house. Press. switch is set 30/50 and is working fine, My problem is I have two frost proof yard hydrants that do not work when I turn Them on. But they work as soon as the well pump comes on when water is being used in the house and the pressure switch kicks the pump on. What could be the problem! Should I check the tank pressure. I had it set at 28 psi before I charge the system. So far the wife is not mad at me about watering her flowers. Thank you 

  • michael czmyr

    well switch keeps going off and on, cut in is 30 psi and cut off is 50, when the pump comes on it will go to 48 psi then sometimes drop to 29 or 30 psi and comes back on, this will do it sometimes 3 times then it will hold at 48 psi, when we checked the bladder it had 43 psi in it, drained the tank drop the pressure to 30 psi in bladder turned on the pump and the same thing happens, it will drop to 30 and come back on, when the pump shuts down it sounds like water is still moving in the tank, we re-set the bladder pressure to 43 psi where it was. it is 7 years old, can you help me.

    thank you

  • Jill

    We have no water pressure in the house – it just dribbles out with no pressure.  We have drained and tried re-charging the tank (it’s pretty old and  I don’t think it has a bladder).  The pressure gauge never moves off ’0′ when we are trying to put air in — and we pumped for almost 1/2 an hour between the 2 of us!  Today (we refilled the tank…3 kids need baths!), I put a cap on the pressure release valve (schrader) to see if maybe there was a leak we didn’t notice….got tank pressure up to 50psi (cutout).  As I stood there, I heard a hissing sound inside the tank…which would mean – what?  Also, you guys talk about pushing the pin down on the schrader valve….mine doesn’t push down, just pops up and releases pressure when the pump is done running.

  • John

    Is it normal for a bladderless tank to become water-logged every sixty days?  Mine does and it is a major PITA.

  • bill mcgaffigan

    The water coming out of my non-bladder pressure tank looks whitish and has air bubbles in the water. How do I get rid of the air bubbles. Is there any PM to clean-out the pressure tank after 40 years of service? The pump turns off at 60psi and turns back on at 40psi. It does not seem to cycle much. Thanks.

  • Hello All,

    I noticed my well pump was cycling on and off frequently during water use. I watched my pressure gauge and observed pressure fell quickly whenever a tap was opened and pressure rose quickly when the pump started.
    After finding your website, I read the instructions twice, and did exactly as directed. I totally drained the tank, I had observed that pump cut-in pressure was 45 PSI. After tank was empty of water, I charged tank with 47 PSI of air, turned breaker on and watched as pump filled tank with water to cut-out of 60 PSI and turned off. Turned on an outside tap and watched as pump cycled on at 45 PSI and off at 60 PSI. I let system cycle 3 times and turned off tap.

    Thank You!

  • Jim

    I am helping my grandmother with her well at her cabin in the mountians. She has a Brady Pressure Tank and the guage is reading 0 PSI. The water faucets in the cabin have very little water flow (Drips and Stops). I do not know if the pressure tank is a baffled style or not (How do I tell if it is or not as there is no model number on the tank)? I believe that with no pressure showing on the guage, I need to add air to the tank. Should this fix the problem,or do you feel that I have a bigger issue? The tank has a Deep Well Air Release. Or might there be an ajdustment that needs to be made to this?
    Thanks for any help you may be able to offer.

  • Jenny

    I have a 52 gal Water Ace pressure tank w/ diaphram. There is water spewing out of the gauge. There is also water coming out of the pipe that comes from the well out side. This leak is a drip from the top spout( it looks like a twisty hose nozzle)I am not sure if something is missing from this.I cannot afford a plumber, and I have no idea how to change the gauge or anything. Can anyone help?

  • Jenny, can you turn off the water so it stops spraying out? Also, can you turn a wrench? The pressure gauge is pretty easy to replace if you have some basic mechanical skills and can turn off the water.

    The well pipe does not sound too good either, but if it is a hose fitting as you say, that might be easily fixed with a gasket from a garden hose.

    Ugh, water ace. Sounds like a home depot special.

  • Rick

    I have a 32 gal bladder tank with a 40/60 presure switch with 38 PSI air pressure in the tank when empty of water, all installed in the basement. Then there is the ground floor and second story baths. Recently, 2nd story shower started trickling at the bottom of the cycle (40 psi) then slowly given enough time, rebuild pressure to an acceptable range. Ground floor sink pressure is low at these times too. we always have had decent 2nd story pressure. I drained the system and added the 38psi(1st time it was 0 psi)turned efery thing back on and had sand blast presure on the 2nd story for 3 days. Now, it’s back to no pressure up there and the air pressure is still 38 psi in the top of the tank when drained. We agin have trickling showers on the 2nd floor. I have watched the cycle operate down to 40 then up to 60 as the water faucet is left open and it seems pretty normal. I have a new tank ready to install but i’m not sure if it’s the problem or not. May be the pressure switch? it seems to work. I am really confused,

  • steven

    From what you’re describing, it sounds like everything on your system is functioning properly, although your tank is sure to be failed. They are often the first thing to degrade in well water systems due to worn out diaphrams. What happens is the diaphram begins to break down and the water enters the upper portion of the tank and therefor reduces the ability to maintain a constant range of pressure throughout your water system. My suggestion would be to replace the tank and keep all your current pressure settings the same. Replacing the tank should solve your problem. If not, use a prosses of elimination to check the rest of the system. I hope this helps.

  • Hi. My question is slightly random.

    I have a green tank just like the one in your picture above. I am building a smithy and it was given to me to use as a body for my forge. I cut it open today and found the inside is coated in black shiny stuff. Do you know what it is? Teflon or ceramic maybe? Depending what it is, I may not be able to use it for my intended purposes.



  • mike

    My Water Pump is currently at 42psi. When I turn the water on it goes to 60psi and then quickly shuts off and back down to 40psi in about 3 seconds. I have no idea about pumps and think it may be waterlogged. It is a Franklin Electric pump Model 2801084915 Volts 230. Anything will help my home schield doesnt cover my pump and I would like some feedback before I call a plumber.

  • ruben

    pump will not shut off it sits at 58 psi 2lbs short of shut off could it be pressure switch

  • ian

    the pressure gauge at the reads 60psi. the pump comes on and goes off automatically. But no water pressure??

    any thoughts

  • John Peterson

    I just recently put down a new sand point, my problem, when the pump is running It will not build pressure in the tank there is no water going into the tank, It is a bladder type tank, I added 18psi of air.
    My cut on pressure is 20psi and the cut off is 40psi.why is there no water going into the tank?

  • Matt Davis

    Thanks for your site!
    I have a bladder type pressure tank; about 4 feet tall, as round as average fit persons’ midsection
    Have rather quickly experienced a much reduced water pressure in our house.
    While running garden hose, saw pressure at pump drop quick, then pump kick in, pressure rise up quick, and repeat…

    Drained pressure tank of water, read pressure, equaled zero – thought this was an indication of a problem
    Pumped air into tank using bike compressor, took a loooong time to get pressure up to cut off value, about 4 min of pump running, actually burned out pump. ( how big are these bladders??!
    No real difference in house water pressure, maybe little improvement… will drain again very soon, and see what pressure is still in tank, maybe zero.
    I think I put a head of air into the tank, this should help the pump for a while…

    Hope you can help with comments



  • dave

    hi there

    i hope u can help me,my pumps been driving me crazy.weve had it installed for 2 years,during which its been working well most of the time.before we had problems which we figured out- too much pressure was making a red light flash saying overload.however of late,the water runs fine for ages , but at some point.the pump shuts off and a red light saying creepage is flashing.do u have any info for me on what could be causing this problem???ive spent days on google and found no answers????hope u can help and thanks in advance


  • I just changed pressure switch and drain valve,also chk tank pressure when empty of water,low psi,charged to 38 psi due 40/60 square d switch.turn on system working fine,question is when measuring air tank bladder should it say 38 psi or should it say total tank pressure with water in it?also after draining tank for second time,recheck air pressure went down to 15 psi and then recharged back up to 38 psi again, is tank bladder leaking then and will it cause to waterlogged? Thank you for any help or input in this matter.

  • bill m

    i have a problem were my water stops flowing in the shower or any other tap in the house for 5 seconds and then kicks back on.This can be cold or hot water. we recently had a hurricane that killed my power for 7 days. At the same time i had a new continuous coil weil mclain boiler installed. There is 80 lbs on my gauge seems high but i replaced the pressure switch some time ago and set it for higher pressure are these problems in anyway related?

  • Charles Bell

    I have a bladderless water tank. I put air in the water empty tank and turned the pump on. The pump will pump up to about 35 pounds on the gauge and pump will continue to run and not built up anymore pressure on the gauge. I shut the pump off manually the pressure will still hold at 35 pounds. I have good pressure at the flush and kitchen sink. Why don’t the water pump, pump up to 40 pounds and cut out on its own?

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