Well Pressure Tank

For a related post on setting well pump pressure switches, check here. I briefly mentioned this is my post about Well Pump installation a few weeks ago. One of the things we are getting ready to replace is our well pressure tank. The old system was not in bad shape, but since we have a new well, a new pre-pressurized Amtrol tank was in order. These tanks have a rubber bladder which holds the air and you do not have to periodically recharge the tank.

With older non-bladder tanks, you must add air every so often to replace the air that escapes, otherwise your pump will run too often risking a motor burnout. This is called short cycling and it happens because there is no air cushion for the water to compress against so the tank has become water logged. The well pressure tank system works under the principle of gases can be compressed while liquids cannot. As water fills the tank, the air bubble at the top of the tank compresses, this pressure is what forces the water into the house’s plumbing system. For more information on water logged pressure tanks, read this post.

Wellxtrol 40 gallon bladder pressure tank

Wellxtrol 40 gallon bladder pressure tank

This is a typical installation, the well pump will be connected to the pipe in the right hand side of the picture. That pipe has a shut off valve and a union. The union is there so the pipe can be “broken” open if the tank ever needs to be replaced without actually cutting the pipe. I like unions, they make life easier in the future. That pipe is connect to the brass T fitting which is connected to the tank. The brass T fitting is a specially designed tank adapter. You can make such a fitting yourself, but why bother when you buy one at a reasonable cost. The T fitting contains the pressure switch, pressure gauge, boiler drain and pressure relief valve.

Lee pressure tank T adaptor with PSI gauge and drain

Lee pressure tank T adaptor with PSI gauge and drain

On the other side of the T fitting is the pipe that feeds water to the house. On that pipe I soldered two stubs so that a water filter or water softener can be added later on. Again, I am all about making life easier in the future, when I think of it.

The directions for the pressure tank state that the pre-charge pressure must be adjusted according to the pressure switch. My switch gives a cut in (turn pump on) of 30 PSI (pounds per square inch) and a cutout (turn pump off) of 50 PSI. Therefore the precharge must be not more than 28 PSI, I may reduce it to 26 PSI to compensate for any error in the pressure switch. If the pressure switch setting were lower than the pressure tank pressure, then the tank would run out of water before the pump would turn on.

This is a list of parts for the pressure tank installation:

  • Amtrol 40 gallon captive air tank
  • Square D pumptrol pressure switch
  • Campbell pressure gauge
  • Lee brass pressure tank T adaptor
  • 4 each 1 inch ball valves
  • 4 each 1 inch unions
  • boiler drain
  • pressure relief valve

Once it stops raining around here and the ground dries out enough to dig a four foot deep trench we will finish this project by actually installing the well pump.

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80 comments to Well Pressure Tank

  • Colleen

    I have a question that I hope someone would be able to help with. We have a 30 gallon pressure tank already in our well pit, we have approx. 9 water fixtures in and around the house, I would like to purchase the next larger size (44 gallons) and not sure if that would be to much pressure on my existing fixtures without causing a problem. Any advice.

  • Colleen, the size of the pressure tank has no bearing on the amount of pressure in the plumbing system itself. It really is a matter of how often your well pump will run and for how long.

  • Tom

    Paul, My squareD 30-50 range pressure switch was turning on for 5 seconds, then off for 7 seconds. Over and over and over again. Sooty deposit under plastic cover. I replaced the switch with a SquareD 40-60. There was a bunch of sedimental crud coating the inside of the nipple, but there was air passage (I do have sediment requiring a 5 micron filter to be changed every 8 weeks or so). Now the on-off interval is increased (maybe on 15 seconds, off for 40 seconds) constantly! The water pressure in the house stays at 37psi and never changes. I have a fiberglass-wound tank which must be a bladder tank and assuming it’s full of water, air psi=about 50+ (Using an unreliable tire guage) . House water pressure guage reads 37psi and it never changes. I’m really worried that all this on/off will burn out the pump- It’s only a year old- pump was replaced after burnout-drought last summer. I’d like higher water pressure in the house. Thats why I replaced the 30-50 with a 40-60. My water pressure has remained unaffected by switch replacement. I tightened the big screw’s nut to increase cut-on/cut-off. Still no change in house’s 37psi water pressure, no noticeable change in water flow anywhere in house. Why isn’t my pressure higher, and why does my switch keep turning on and off? What should I do now?

  • Tom,

    First off, the on/off cycling will burn out the starter windings in the pump and it wastes a lot of electricity, so it needs to be fixed ASAP.

    I don’t really know for sure why your pump would be cycling on and off like that. Here are a few possibilities:

    1. Blockage in the pipe coming from the well, the T on the pressure tank, the pipe feeding the house or the water filter. You mentioned that you have a lot of sediment. Does it calcify (e.g. form hard crusty stuff that is difficult to remove)? If so, you could have a restriction that is only allowing a small amount of water through your system.

    2. The pump is not building up enough pressure to satisfy the pressure switch. It could be low water level in the well. Does the switch cycle on and off or does the pump stop running with the switch still pulled in? If the switch stays pulled in then the pump is partly out of the water and the motor is overheating.

    I think it is more likely the first problem, but you never know. Let me know how it turns out.

  • [...] but it doesn’t have to be. Your way will work fine and is similar to what is shown on this site: Well Pressure Tank: Homeowner's Blog If your pump is cutting on at 27#, your tank pressure should be set to 25#. This needs to be done [...]

  • jai

    i think that you have a one way valve problem TOM that evrry time the pump tries to build pressure and remain off the one way vale (check valve) is deffective

  • michelle

    We have a well-trex water pressure tank, i’m not sure if it has a bladder, it’s pretty old from the look of it the psi is set for 30. The switch is the pumptrol D. The problem came up when we had a washing machine plumbing installed. I had run 4 loads of laundry and my small portable dishwasher and after a while we had no pressure to the second floor where the shower is and second bath. We get barely enough to flush the toilet in the downstairs bath and to run the water for a couple of minutes before we have to run down and hold the switch down to get enough pressure build back up. The pressure tank is still holding at about 30 psi, we have checked it with a tire gauge. We have cw and ccw both the screws and read that we need to keep the pressure gauge around the 30 psi. the switch says it is a 20 to 40 psi.

  • Michelle,  If you have to hold the pressure switch down, it sounds like the spring might be broken.  If that is the case, the entire switch should be replaced.  You may want to check for obstructions in the water pipe, sometimes it happens with older plumbing.  30 PSI seems a little low for a two story house.  Water pressure drops the higher above the pressure tank you get.  Bascially for every foot of elevation above the pressure tank,  you loose about 0.4 PSI

  • michelle

    Thanks for the quick response. I went down and looked again at the switch the springs don’t look broken and the plate they are on goes down without a problem. Everything looks clean and nothing obviously wrong with it. I pushed the spring plate down and it connected and came on. I tried to turn down the short spring and could only get it to go up to 32. I turned the tall screw 10 more times cw. does it need to go more? Still no pressure. oh and I kicked and hit at the water pipes, the main one is just thick rubber. So if there is a clog I hope I broke it up. We still have limited pressure to the bottom floor Thanks again. Michelle

  • michelle

    by the way its a well x trol tank. my husband told me the wrong name. sorry.

  • michelle

    okay my husband went down and turned the tall screw down more and the pressure is back on upstairs. My concern now is do we do nothing and wait and see or can we start using the upstairs bath. We’ve been down a couple of days. can I use the washer and dishwasher? Again thanks for the help.

  • I am going to stick with my original thought, you need a new pressure switch because either a) the original switch is so far out of adjustment that It may never be right again, or b) the original pressure switch is broken or some combination of the two.

    Also, I would go for a 40/60 switch, especially if you have 1/2 inch pipes. 

  • I am having a problem with air leaks developing in the PVC fittings at the connections on the pump,  is their any rule of thumb as to how far away from the pump you should use PVC. Someone suggested using brass for the first 12″ out of the pump so that vibration or temperature won’ t be a factor. The pump is in Northern Florida with a temperature range  of anywhere from 90 degrees down to 20 degrees in winter. The pump is outside and exposed to the elements.
    Thank You

  • passdm

    What is the name of your water presure gauge or maybe model number, I cant find any in homedepot.

  • Try Campbell PGCBM-1 available from ACE hardward.  Homedepot should have something simular

  • Tom

    I have a galvanized pressure tank that is leaking.  The galvanized tank is before the pressure switch, and there’s also a bladder tank right after the switch.  Can I just take off the galvanized tank?  Can you think of any reason for both tanks?  

  • I can’t think of any reason to have two pressure tanks.  I’d remove the leaking tank and check the bladder tank for a proper charge.

  • Judy

    We have lived in our home for 11 years. It is approximately 35 years old. We have no clue how deep the well is and the pressure tank looks original. Up until 2 weeks ago, we have had no real problems. Now we have LOTS of air in the line. It did it for a couple of days, then it quit. Now there’s air in the line again. Is it a pressure tank problem or a well problem?

  • Tom

    I have a main house and a pool house being served by one well (and pump); there is a t-fitting off of line from well, and pipes that run to each building. There is a pressure tank only in main house, so when water is run in pool house, pump must respond and supply water. Can this damage my pump, or cause it to wear out prematurely? If you say that I need to install pressure tank in pool house, can the pump respond to two different pressure switches (and how would this be wired?)?

  • I suppose you could put two pressure tanks on one well pump to increase the storage volume and the time between the on/off pump cycle.  I don’t know why you would want to do this, however, when you could install a larger tank and have the same effect.  Also, having two pressure switches makes no sense.  I think what you are trying to accomplish would require two wells or at least two well pumps.  If pressure is an issue, install a higher pressure switch.  If volume is an issue, install a bigger pressure tank.

  • Tom

    Thanks for the response. The issue is that I have two separate structures that are NOT connected by any piping, so the pressure tank in the main house only serves that structure; at the T-fitting, one line runs to main house, and one line runs to pool house. The way that I understand it, whenever someone in the pool house turns on the water, it requires the pump to run, as there is no pressure tank associated with the pool house. Will this situation cause premature pump failure? With the configuration I have described, how would you address?

  • Mike

    Need helpI changed my well water relief valve. And I still have the same problem.  The relief valve goes off when the water pressure reaches 25 lbs.  The valve is rated for 75 lbs.  What could be the problem?  I turned off the power and drained the system and stated it back up again. And when I turn on the pump on and the pressure reaches 25 lbs the water pressure relief keeps going off.  This is even my second new valve I purchased.  Does any one no the problem.  Thanks

  • vic haines

    My pressure swicth will not stop its on and off,to get the pressure up you must hold when water is used the pressure goes down and the switch is on off again and the pressure wont come up unless you hold it on.

  • Kerry

    I have an 82 gallon bladder pressure tank. There are markings stamped on the side that say D-2/75. How do I find out what the correct pressure for my tank is? The only brand info I can find on the tank is a sticker that says “Merrill-float”. Thanks

  • I truely don’t know

  • regina

    water well’s pressure goes up fast then drops real fast. pop off valve comes on. Buts cycles real fast. can you help with the problem?

  • jim

    HELP! we have lived in our house for about 3 years, and recently have been having problems with water pressure in the house. We have a well, and the pressure pump and the well pump are oiginal with the house, 1988. Water pressure was good for a long time, and recently pressure would drop off, then trickle to nothing fora few minutes, then come back on, and repeat the sam cycle. I changed the pressure auge and the pressure switch. When i was swapping out the switch, i aw that there was a greatdeal of sediment from the main well line to the switch pipe. That was cleaned out, and for about a month things were great. A week ago, same problems started and seem to be worse. I took off the switch and gauge, and cleaned them (did not seem to be too dirty though) and pressure does not seem to be as good as it was a mnth ago right after the swap. Could this have anything to do with he well trol (blue colored) tank? any suggestons would be greatly appreciated.

  • Slade

    I have an issue with water pressure in a house we just moved in to. The well works fine for the house and the well is about 14 years old. The pressure tank seems to be working fine. I have a hot water recovery unit hooked up to the system and a water softner. The pressure ranges from 42 to 65 psi for the house. The problem is that when I begin to irrigate outside, the system will lose pressure. The tank is currently set at 38 psi, but when I irrigate outside the pressure will drop below this setting after about 30 minutes of watering and fluctuate between 15 psi and about 40 psi. The pressure gauge just bounces between the two settings. Of course the water coming out of the sprinkler is going off and coming on continuously. If I turn off the water, the pressure will recover to normal settings. Could this be a pump issue? Any ideas? Thank you for the help.

  • jamison

    my pressure switch is a 30-50. my pressure will cut in at about 22psi and cut out at about 60 so my pressure will very alot while taking a shower. the pressure in my tank is 27. does this mean that my pressure switch is bad since i can not just change the cut in setting.

  • Mike

    Our well went dry last year due to a 3 year drought in our area.  Had a new well drilled in a new location and 150 ft. deeper.  This year with the abundance of rain, the old well, which is NOT connected to the house, has recovered.  The original wiring was left in place and I thought it would be a great idea to hook up the old well and use it to water my wife’s garden.  I rigged up a manifold out of PVC fittings and took off of the pump head with a square D 60/40 pressure switch (left at factory settings), a pressure gauge, dead-ends into a faucet, which I connected a battery powered timer and a hose to the garden.  I installed a 20 amp circuit breaker in a sub-panel in the house, just like it was wired previously.  Everything seems to work fine when I check it manually, but sometime during the programed time to come on and off, the circuit breaker is tripped.  Do you think I should up the circuit breaker to 30, or does it have something to do with me not installing a pressure tank?  Thank you for any of your ideas.

  • Mike,

    It sounds like your garden watering system has no pressure tank.  A ordinary well pump needs a pressure switch, or it needs to be turned off when not in use.  It is likely that the pressure is dropping when the system is not in use, this causes the pump to turn on and try to pump against the closed valve.  This in turn, cause the pressure switch to open and close rapidly, tripping the breaker.  It is not good for the pump either.  A larger circuit breaker will not solve this.

    A small pressure tank would solve this.  Else, you could wire a 220V timer into the well pump circuit, do away with the battery timer, and leave the faucet open all the time. 

  • Nelson

    I am replacing the pressure tank. Once I replace it do I add air to it first or do I turn the pump on and then replace the air? Also should I turn a faucet on before I turn on the pump?

  • Linda

    Our water source for our house is a pond out in our front yard. There is a submersible pump in the pond and then we have the pressure tank in the house. Our water pressure has been fine for the most part since we moved in. The other day I was filling up my kids pool and the water pressure in the house was next to none. I figured it was because I was filling up the pool so I turned that off for a bit and water pressure was back up in the house. Later that night I tryed to water the garden and no pressure. Hubby went in and was checking the pressure valve switch and by doing it manually we had pressure. We thought ok, we need a new pressure switch. Went and bought one and put it on. Everything seemed ok for about an hour and then back to no pressure. Hubby reset the switch again and for a while it was coming on and off like it should. Once again, no pressure and the switch wasn’t coming on . I can turn on the water faucet and have great pressure for all of about 5-6 seconds and then it drains down to a trickle. Check the switch and its not resetting itself. The pond isnt low and has plenty of water in it ????? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

  • danny

    i am on a well and my water pressure never seems to be real strong but not real bad either. after flushing the toilet or showering the well will turn on and go up to 55psi and shut off. after about 30 minutes i noticed it reading at 40psi… when i get up in the morning it reads 28psi. my neighbor said it should hold at 55 or drop just a little bit and the bladders bad but i dont agree, when my well pump was installed 7 yrs ago the guy wrote 28psi on my tank. i think thats what its supposed to read and my pressure is just because i have a very deep well. anyone know whos right ?

  • autorob

    my well has very low pressuer i installed a booster pump and it works fine when it runs then the pressure dopes agin.what can i do to fix this problem.

  • Barb

    I have a pressure tank that is about 30 years old but I don’t know how to tell if it is a bladder type or not. My pressure is set at 40-60. With a faucet open, the pump comes on for about 6-8 seconds, shuts off and then comes on again in about 30-40 seconds. If it is bladderless, I have been told to drain the tank using an air compressor to force the water out and then start it up again. Any help on this?

  • david

    i have a job im doing on a well system they have no water at all and the pump house is at least 1/4 mile from house and down a big hill the pressure tank is also in the well house why is she not gettng water ?the tank has to be inside or can i leave it there and put a check valve on the line. they keep blowing tanks too i am little new at this can u help? how can i get her water again

  • John

    My pump was short cycling and not holding pressure e.g. going from 40 psi to 60 psi and back when no water was being used. The pressure tank was leaking so I replaced that. However, the problem still exists. I think it may be the check valve (if there is one?) in the pump that is bad and my water is just recirculating back and forth from the well to the tank. Have I just diagnosed the problem or is there some more trouble shooting I can do?

    Comments would be very much appreciated


  • claude

    Hi i lost power for todays.Now i have no watter going to the baths.What do you think.

  • Bill says

    Danny change out your check valve. Water pressure is leaking back into your well. That’s what the check valve does. It keeps water pressure and contaminants from going back into your well.

  • Rebecca

    Every time we put the pipes together on our water heater after a few min the pressure cuppling comes lose and floods the floor what do i do

  • Debbie W

    I have a well and periodically while the water is running the water will stop for a couple of seconds and then the water will start again. This does not happen alot.

  • Debbie W

    Correct e-mail address

  • Justin

    mother-in-law called saying her pressure tank keeps turning off. Any ideas where to start? Thanks.

  • i have a 30 50 pressure switch that was worig fine until this morning. when running water the gauge will drop to 30 then instead of the pump clicking on, the pressure will drop to 0 and the water in te house will shut off. how can i get it back to working right.

  • moonlytr

    10 year old well new 85 gallon pressure tank well. pressure dropped to about half . bladder holding steady at 41 psi but pressure stays low what could be the cause ? thanks

  • Great Blog. looking at your pressure tank setup, your stubs for filters are after the pressure tank. why wouldn’t you want to install filters especially rust filters before the pressure tank to prevent rust contamination of the bladder?

  • Paul

    I am under contract to purchase a home. It is well water and septic, typical for our area. Neither I nor my home inspector could find a pressure tank. Is it possible to have a well system without a pressure tank? There definately is not one.

    The real question is going to be ‘where to I install the PH neutralizer’?

  • Paul, If the house has a well, there has to be a pressure tank somewhere. In warmer climates, they are sometimes outside by the well. PH neutralizer should be installed where the water comes into the house, I take it you have acidic water?

  • Lonnie

    I live in the country with a well for means of water. I was want to know what king of air pressure my holding tank should have because I don’t have good water pressure. I had to replace a water heater recently because the other one was ols & clogged up with lime. before that my water pressure was fairly good until the water heater went out & then I had no water pressure at all nor did I have water. Please help me? Thanks, Lonnie

  • Chris

    My presure tank will not shut off can’t build any more than 36 psi pump keeps running. Changed pump presure tank switch check valve (everything was replaced) Why cant I build enough pressure to shut the pump off.

  • Chris

    I replaced my pump pressure tank pressure switch ( Ichanged everything) My problem is that my pump keeps running will not build any more than 36 psi . Pressure switch is 30/60 pump keeps running and than shuts down on I am guessing overload. why can’t I build any more than 36 psi.

  • benny

    ?how do i set the right pressure for my pressuretank 20 gal lwo 30 high50 ?

  • Can you recommend a replacement captive air tank for a 19 gallon Sears tank where the shallow well jet pump mounts on top of the tank? Tank is rusty and I don’t know if I can successfully replace the bladder which leaks.

  • ted h.

    my well turns on every time you open a faucet in the house. and when i flush or run the washer, it runs untill the water is shut off then for a few seconds then stops.
    i have an above ground 2 inch well, the pressure switch is mounted to the well pump not the pressure tank. i checked the psi not to long ago and it was at around 41, wich is what the tank is supposed to be at. is it possible that i just need to drain this tank and let it refill becasue its waterlogged? the tank is about ten years old, as is the well pump and switch.

  • robert taylor

    I released a small amout of pressure from the top of my pressure tank by pressing the air valve. Water came out not air, does this mean my tank is waterlogged? if so how do i recharge it?

  • Keith

    I have changed out my pressure switch and the control box….but still nothing…no water in the tank and no pressure…what gives…any ideas what is going on please help

  • Paul

    I have a quick question about wiring the pressure tank switch. I read the prev. blog about tank switches but I am unsure about the white neutral wire. It appears that they do not connect in the blog photo. Do these get joined with a wire nut? or tied in with the ground, left unattached because they are redundant with the neutrals?



    Well Paul, I’m sure you have it licked by now, but those white wires are L2 and not neutral unless you have a 110V pump.

    Both pump and supply voltage L1 connect on one side next to one another, and L2 connects on the other side next to each other
    (white next to white)………

    How did ya make out anyhow??

  • Please help me out, I had all new parts, tank, pump, switch, etc. four years ago. My well is 120 ft. and they hit water at 50 ft. I am running out of water daily. If I go turn water off at the well and leave off overnight I have water the next day but only enough for 2 showers and 1 load of clothes, then I turn water off again and I have more water. If I dont turn water off at night the next morning I have none. Can you please shine some light on this problem?

  • Jon

    I have a huge problem with ants fouling the contact points of the pressure switch. This causes the pump tp stay off because the points are “insulated” by dead ant bodies. Ever heard of a sealed pressure switch?

  • Bill Carter

    What makes the water pressure fluctuate? constantly go up and down when the water is running? is that caused by too much pressure in the tank or too little?

  • John S

    I put a new pumpcontrol switch in. I think the switch was bad (not sure) but the pressure gage by the swicth read zero. If the pump won’t kick in until the pressure is at least at 30, how do I get the pump to originally begin to fill to turn on and fill the tank so the pressure is aty least at the minimum where it kicks in?

  • Curt

    I “manage” ( sorta ) a community well.
    Looking for info on reducing the electric bill.
    Do I want to set the pressure and air volume to run the pump longer when it runs, or shorter when it runs ?
    System is a 500 gallon tank, 1hp pump in a 30 inch dia. well. Feeds a dozen homes.
    Loses 23 pounds from wellhead to highest home. ( mine ) currently cut in set at 47 pounds, cut out at 70. Current off cycle is about 1/2 hour, on cycle about 10 minutes when a 1/2 line is open.

  • Andy

    My presure switch ‘clicks’ on and off when water is turned on. The pressure in the tank drops to 20 and then recovers to 50. Does not seem to kick the pump on, just cycles whenever cold water is tuned on. No notable decrease in water pressure but it does pulse slightly during the cycle of the switch. Could this be a tank issue (bladder tank) or air in the system? Afraid that something will short at some point.

  • Paul

    You may not have enough air in the bladder.

  • Sue

    The problem I have is that my pump (above ground) will come on at about 20 psi, but it will not turn off. The only way I can get it to turn off is by going down and turning the nuts to lower the pressure. Then once it comes on I have to do the same thing again. I wondering if it could have something to do with the bladder tank? I have switched out the switch so I know it is ok. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  • Sue

    I should have told you that the psi gets to about 35-40, but just stays steady at that and doesn’t turn off until I play around with the adjustment nuts.

  • Danny

    I’m not sure what’s going on.But I’ve replaced a water filter on the water line.And now I have little water pressure and the water will quit for a few mintu then come back on.I’ve shut off all power to the well for a few hours maybe pump in the well is low? turned it back on and still droping presseure to 0.Then will build back up.What can I do next?Thanks

  • Rob

    I’ve heard of pressure tanks being waterlogged, but not this:
    My mom-in law complained about low pressure so I took a look at her system. One thing I noticed was that the pressure tank
    seemed to have no water at all in it (very light weight) at all times no matter what the gauge read. It still had air pressure.It seems like something is preventing water from entering the tank and the well runs on demand. The pipe is plastic, so I don’t think it’s a rust clog.
    I think I should replace the tank, but I’m not sure it’s the problem. What do you think?

  • JIm

    My pump shuts off and 40 psi and turns on at 60 psi. Lately I have noticed that it cyles even when there is no water running. The pump turns on at 40 psi and goes to 60 psi in 30 seconds or so. It then take about 5 minutes for the pressure to drop back to 40 and turn on again. Not having lived in the house very long I am not sure if things are working the way they should be.

  • Steph

    Please HELP!!! We have a well and the baldder broke on our pressure tank. We replaced our pressure tank with a 19gallon pre-charged Flotec, T-pipe(brass), power switch (D Square 30/50) and pressure gauge today, hooked everything up and turned the power back on and nothing! No pressure is reading on the gauge, it is still at zero. We have tried to adjust the switch, took the gauge off to check for water and its there. We then turned everything back off drained the lines and checked the pressure in the tank and took it to 28psi, turned the power back on and still nothing. Can anyone help us figure out whats wrong? We have very little water coming out of all the water fixtures in the home and I need my water back….please help!

  • Chris

    I have a well system that has low pressure. When the tap is first turned on, there is some pressure, but the longer the tap stays on, the lower the pressure. I have drained the pressure tank of water, checked the psi on it, and it shows 0. I’m guessing that the tank has a ruptured bladder, but not sure if the pump is at fault or the pressure tank.
    Some web searches say it’s the pump, some say it’s the pressure tank. It is easier to replace the pressure tank, but I don’t want to waste my money and find out it’s the pump.
    Switch is a 50/30 and works fine. Not sure how deep the well is, but was told it is at least 65 feet. No visible water leaks. No audible air leaks. Water filters are on bypass right now because of low water pressure. Put 28 psi in the pressure tank according to manufacture’s website/manual.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  • ken

    Our pressure tank is supposed to refill when the pressure drops to 10psi. There have been times recently when the pressure drops all the way to 0. The water stops running, and after a few seconds (sometimes longer) the pump clicks on and refills the tank to 40 psi and shuts off like its supposed to do. This does not happen all the time, although it has been happening more often lately. Its not a lack of water, the tank fills right up when the pump comes on, its almost like it forgets to click on at 10 psi like its supposed to.

  • Dan

    We have had no well, pump, pressure tank issues for the last 9 years. A few months ago the our water stopped and the pressure tank didn’t refill for several minutes. I had a well/pump guy come out who told me all was fine and it was my softener system regenerating during the day which caused the problem. He was incorrect. I bypassed the system and it continued to happen. It is now happening more often. I tried adding air to my pressure tank and that seemed to make the situation worse. I removed air from the system and now I’m around 15psi with the tank empty of water. The cut out pressure is consistently 60 and the cut in pressure is set for 40 but sometimes the tank begins refilling at 40 and sometimes the tank drops to 15psi and the water shuts off. When the tank is out of water I here an occasional gurgle or air bubble in the tank. The tank usually refills within a few minutes on it’s own. When I had added air to the tank it would not refill on it’s own when it ran out but as soon as I relieved some of the the pressure through the air valve on top of the pressure tank it began to fill. Any suggestions?

  • Dan

    It doesn’t seem to be a well issue as sometimes this happens first thing in the morning after the well had all night to recoup. Is it a pump, pressure tank or pressure switch issue?

  • John

    Every hour or so I hear a high pitch hum from my well’s tank. It appears to be from the area of the pressure guage. When it hums, I see water running out what appears to be a pressure release valve spigot. My pressure valve reads around 65 psi. I have no working knowledge of well, pumps or tanks, but from what I’ve read here, 65 seems pretty high. I am not a do it yourself person when it comes to plumbing so I will be calling in the experts. What should I expect to hear him say needs to be done, and will it be expensive? I have no problem with water pressure inside the house. Thanks!

  • brian

    Sounds like the pressure switch.

  • Robert

    here is one for everyone, I had my water well go down over the weekend and thought the pump went out or the wire was bad, after pulling the pump we determand that the wire was good by ohming it out and that the pump motor was bad. so we put a new pump in the well and and pressure switch and fired it up, after running a little while it blew the capacitor, thinking it might be a bad capacitor we installed a new one and same thing, I was about to pull the well again when something told me to check my power supply from the breaker box which is burried cable for about a 100 feet, when we check it we discovered that there was one of the hot wires shorting out and causing the system to over amp and blow the capacitor in the control box…

  • Robert

    I have a valve called a cycle soft valve that helps prevent short cycling on the pump, I had to get one that was set at 50psi since I have a 40 to 60 pressure switch, they seem to work well on this issue…

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