Comments on: Well Pump installation prep

By: Bindu

Bindu — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 05:53:03 +0000

Nice description about pumps installation along with the pics!

By: Paula Baldwin

Paula Baldwin — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:46:38 +0000

tried to pull submersible pump but first pulled the pex tubing off of pump and yes you guessed it. I now have pulled the safety rope off. So fairly new pump remains in the bottom of the well. Do I have an option to just drop in a new pump?

By: Paula Baldwin

Paula Baldwin — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:38:42 +0000

ttried to pull submersible pump but first pulled the pex tubing off of pump and yes you guessed it. I now have pulled the safety rope off. So fairly new pump remanes in the bottom of the well. Do I have an option to just drop in a new pump?

By: Mike Andrews

Mike Andrews — Sat, 22 Oct 2011 16:27:30 +0000

HI Paul,
Thanks for all of your insight! You were very detailed in your pump installation directions. I have a website, http://www.gmbpumps.com, that sells a lot of well/water pumps and I think this information would be very valuable to our customers. Would you mind if I shared your post on our blog? Thanks!

By: Leroy

Leroy — Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:51:19 +0000

I’m using a well pump in a waterfall installation. I specs say the pump has a left handed thread. I haven’t recieved the goulds 1/2 hp pump yet. I’m trying to get all the plumbing ready and can’t find any reference to a left handed thread. Is this standard with well pumps?

By: Ruth

Ruth — Thu, 28 Jul 2011 17:26:01 +0000

What if your static water level is above the frost line? How do you protect the pitless adapter? also, I will be shutting down our water system in winter (no commercial power to run heat tape), so I will need the incoming line to drain (using a submersible pump) – can I just put in T with a ball valve on the house side of the pitiless adapter (to drain water and all own air in? Then how do you keep that sterile (safe).
Thanks

By: Rebecca

Rebecca — Sat, 23 Jul 2011 10:35:45 +0000

Hello, my well has been turning off sporadically for the last 4 months. The pump, casing & pipes have been replaced about 4 years ago. We recently replaced the start & stop capacitors in the box above ground at the well. We also replaced the pressure tank. After we replaced the capacitors the well shut off two times and then has ran perfectly, however, it just now turned off after a month of working. What could be the problem? Please get back to me.
Rebecca

By: dave

dave — Mon, 20 Jun 2011 01:19:06 +0000

I install new sumersible for new house home owner is doing electric on the pump has two blacks n a green and it looks like green goes to ground screw n blacks to middle screws on presure switch and not in any order now looks like the hot loops two outer screws on switch so looks to me like no neutral would that b right help thanks

By: Bruce

Bruce — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 20:34:08 +0000

I wish to install a pump in a 4″ casing to pump water into a pond. Is it possible to simply have the pipe attach to PVC that runs open ended to the pond with no tank and no pressure switch. I’d like to just manually turn it on and turn it off for the appropriate amounts of time using a gas powered generator.

By: Jon

Jon — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 01:54:26 +0000

Jeff,
Here’s a link
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-6613.html
which rings of a similarity to your problem– Iron build up caused pump to catch in well casing? Here is the essence of the month-long correspondence which resulted in a cure.

“Thanks for the description of the reaming machine. I never knew there was such a device. That sure puts a lot of rust scrapings down in the well. I assume it all settles to the bottom where it doesn’t get picked up by the pump.

Today I ran the camera down the well and could actually see where the pump’s cable guard had scraped the casing wall in places. Could also see where the sections of casing were welded together.

This afternoon I made a reamer by flaring out one end of a 2′ length of 3″ heavy-wall steel pipe to about 3 7/8″ dia. Next I ground the inside of the flared edge to an angle for shearing any protrusions on the casing wall. The makeshift reamer weighs about 35 lbs and has worked down about 40′ so far. I use the safety rope to work the tool up and down as it shaves the walls. Also attached a backup 1/8″ steel cable in case anything unexpected happens to the rope.”

In one of the posts it is also mentioned that well drillers are capable of reaming the casing.

Hope this helps.