Comments on: Well Pump Pressure Switch

By: Paul

Paul — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 21:17:51 +0000

Sandy, I’d call the guy who installed the water filter and have him come back and turn down the water pressure to your satisfaction. Barring that, read the above article and I’d suggest you turn screw #1 anti clockwise.

Adrian, It sounds like you have an electrical overload. Time to call a professional and have them look at it.

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By: adrian

adrian — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 18:27:37 +0000

Greetings,

This is for anyone who can help me.I am having a problem with the plastic insides of my pressure switch getting too hot and melting causing the contacts not to open and close properly thus causing the pump to malfunction.The pump was installed new about 4 years ago but the last year or so I have had to replace the pressure switch numerous times say once every 3 or 4 months.The people at Lowe’s seems to think I have an electrical problem and it’s not in their switches.They also told me not to use connectors at the end of the wires just tighten the wires from the pump and from the house (220 I think) snugly under the contact screws.Can anyone help?

By: Sandy

Sandy — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:04:14 +0000

We have TOO much water pressure! How do we turn it down? We have a pump in a well and a pressure tank in the house. The guy who installed a sediment filter for us turned up the pressure to compensate–I assume at the pressure tank. We need to turn it down. Any help is appreciated!

By: Paul

Paul — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 14:27:57 +0000

Steve,

You have a bladder pressure tank and the bladder has too much air in it. Read the post about Well Pressure Tanks for a general discussion. I would find the air fitting, should be somewhere on the top of the tank, and reduce the pressure to around 24-26 PSI. You can use a tire gauge to check the pressure.

Once you do that, reset both screws to there mid point settings and then you will have to adjust them by trial and error.

By: Steve

Steve — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 03:03:21 +0000

I’m having a problem with my water well system. When running the water and watching the pressure gauge the system pressure slowly goes down to approx 30psi then just drops to zero real fast. the pump will then after approx 5 sec kick on and the pressure gauge jumps to 30 psi and slowly builds to cut out pressure approx 50 psi. I have drained all the water from my system and checked the air pressure in my pressure tank, it shows to be 27 psi. and the tank when wiggled appers to be empty. I thought maybe i had a pluged r restricted stand pipe to my pressure switch, I removed my pressure switch and pushed a wire threw the 1/4 pipe, the pipe was clear. i replaced the pressure switch with a new 30/50 pressure switch and the pump when the same problem, (droped to zero) never came on at all, i attemped to adjust the switch, by adjusting both the adjusting screws and have really got myself in a mess, how do i get the pressure switch back to the correct settings?, can i heve a air lock on the water side of my pressure tank that needs to be bled out? please help. thanks Steve

By: Paul

Paul — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 00:27:40 +0000

Jim, Sound right to me, on a bladder tank, the pressure with the tank empty should be at least 5 psi below the pressure switch cut in (low pressure on). See this post about pressure tanks and this post about water logged pressure tanks for more info.

By: jim

jim — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 00:14:20 +0000

this is in response to the pressure switch chattering. i stumbled onto this discussion group while helping a buddy out tonight. we had installed a new motor/pump/tank assy. last night. pump has been sproadically chattering ever since. i had him check the bladder pressure WITH THE TANK DRAINED. he measured 40 psi. he bled it down to to around 30 psi. and tells me it’s now working.

my guess is that, if it were at 40 psi empty, then it’s even higher when filled with water. now run the pump briefly and ya got even more pressure. my take is that it quickly (almost immediately) reaches the cutout of 50 prematurely. then, the pump kicks out, and you’re close to the cut-in pressure. i think that’s when it starts to oscillate.

just my simple take.

By: Terry

Terry — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:01:48 +0000

I have the two threaded screws on my regulator. I’m new to this well/septic system and didn’t know what to do to increase the pressure from the well, so, as usual, I started tinkering. I started with low end at 30 and top end shut-off at 50. I have now turned each of the adjustment nuts two turns clockwise. The top end pressure is now 65, but the bottom end (turn-on pressure) is still about 30. Can I increase the low end to 40 or not? Thanks–

Terry in Texas

By: garry back

garry back — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 21:58:47 +0000

well i wired it up like your picture but i put the white were your red wires were and that work.now i got to get the foot value on stuck so it will drall up write dont want to dig it up with ground frozen.thank if you reply to the other one

By: garry back

garry back — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 20:54:30 +0000

i put a new pressure switch on i have a black white and green wires i put the two black wire in the middle screws and the white one on the out side screws when i plug it in it throws the braker do i have it wire up write